Azores Archipelago

Filling a big black cauldron with pig and chicken parts, lamb shanks, rabbit meat and a motley mix of vegetables, then placing it into a steaming hole in the volcanic earth of a crater for seven hours may sound a little sinister. But on the Azorean island of Sao Miguel at Lake Furnas, I did just that, because this was dinner.

At Lake Furnas, anyone can cook a ‘codizo’ the local Portuguese name for the stew - for free. Around a dozen naturally heated holes are available and a codizo butler keeps an eye out ensuring your dinner stays yours. Returning to collect my handiwork after a day’s sightseeing, I found my meal ready to eat – and it was delicious. Of course, if you prefer exploring or trekking around the volcanic island or soaking in the healing spa waters rather than cooking in them, you can always order this uniquely local dish at a local restaurant instead.

And you would be wise to because the nine islands of the Azores archipelago is all about nature and ideal for a relaxing holiday with Mother Nature. The geothermal waters provide natural renewable energy as well as healing. Practically everyone works for the government in some way, either tending to the conservation of rare plants, or in farming or tourism.

The Azores’ very existence is thanks to volcanic eruptions in the middle of the Atlantic over the last few hundred million years. The tips of huge mountains stretching upwards from the ocean floor form the nine islands of the archipelago and their peaks are the homeland of the Azorean people, descendents of Portuguese and Flemish settlers who arrived in the 15th century. Back then, pirates who happened upon them believed they had found the lost city of Atlantis.

And though geographically closer to north Africa, the Azores are actually on the European continent and are an autonomous region of Portugal, 800 miles away.

The largest island, Sao Miguel, dubbed ‘Blue Island’, is a long thin strip of land and the most developed. On its western edge is the capital city of Ponta Delgada where a four-hour flight from the UK brings visitors to a city with lots to see; museums, historic churches, monuments like the imposing 16th century 'Castelo Sao Bras' fort, built to deter pirates and the 18th century City Gates “Portas da Cidade”. This is the place to explore the city’s cobbled streets and quaint crafts shops.

Beyond Ponta Delgada it becomes clear why Sao Miguel has been nicknamed ‘the Blue Island’. Between May and October, the winding roadsides are brim-full with big-blossomed baby blue hydrangeas. Beyond them are lush hilly landscapes where sleepy cows or sheep barely acknowledge the odd passing car. Meanwhile a riot of azaleas, white, red and pink, nod in the breeze alongside elegant hedges of Camellias. Had the spirit taken me to hug  a tree there would have been plenty to choose from - the Japanese Cryptomeria, Laurel, Brazilian Cedar and Acacia – all of which have been brought to the island over the years.

At the village of Sete Cidades is the miradouro - look out point - of Vista do Rei. Overlooking two dramatically beautiful volcanic craters, it is absolutely breathtaking. And as with most things this beautiful, there is a legend. This one involves a beautiful princess who fell in love with a shepherd, but whose father forbade them from marrying. The king permitted them one final meeting and her tears ran blue - forming the larger lake. The shepherd’s tears were green, and filled the smaller crater, forming the second lake.

From Sao Miguel it is only a one hour flight to Faial, the favoured island of mariners around the world. Sailors spend their evenings at the fantastically popular marine-themed Peter’s Café - overlooking Horta marina. Peter runs a whale watching company, taking groups out in his 24-seater catamaran to watch whales from April to October. I was lucky enough to see several sperm whales as well as dolphins who playfully danced around our catamaran.
Our guide told us that he aims to keep a respectful distance between the whales and the boat.  “The only problem is the whales,” he told us.  “They take no notice of guidelines.”

Faial has other delights too. Right in the middle of the island is another crater, referred to as the Caldeira. The approach is through a dim tunnel to the scoop-shaped gash. It is hard to come to terms with the fact that 1400ft below, the trees that look like small plants are actually hundreds of feet high.

From Horta marina a 30 minute ferry ride offers a regular transfer to the south of Madelena on Pico Island. The island, dominated by the awesome snow-capped Pico volcano, is the second largest, the youngest at just 700,000 years old, and least fertile. The whole island is composed of thick basalt. The earth, is a dense mesh of volcanic lava, full of volcanic stones and the Atlantic winds can be too harsh and salty for berries to blossom yet the vineyards have become the island’s most beautiful treasure and a World Heritage Site by Unesco. Viticulturalists had cleared the land and used big black basalt stones to build what looks like higgledy piggledy placings of low walled enclosures that protect the vines from the wind and thanks to their heat retaining properties, provide extra warmth to help the grapes ripen. The result is, like everywhere on the Azores, simple beauty by natural design.

Getting There:

SATA fly direct from London Gatwick to Ponta Delgada in Sao Miguel from £398 return on a Tuesday and Saturday in the summer season. 

Sata flies direct to the island of Pico from Ponta Delgada from 170 euros return and 85 euros one way.
www.sata.pt

Where to stay On São Miguel Island
Terra Nostra Garden Hotel ***
Rua Padre José  Jacinto Botelho, 5
9675-061 Furnas
Tel: (+351) 296 549 090  www.bensaude.pt
Doubles from 84 euros
This is three star hotel attached to the island’s most famous 12 acre botanical gardens of the same name. The gardens have a thermal lake where lovers are often seen soaking for hours.

Where to stay on Pico Island
Aldeia da Fonte Silveira ****
9930 Lajes
Tel: (+351) 292 679 500 www.aldeiadafonte.com
Doubles from 65 euros
Perched on cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean at the foot of Mount Pico, the location is idyllic. The complex of secluded two-story stone houses is surrounded by forest, rocks and vineyards.The hotel also has its own gourmet restaurant.

Where to stay on Failal Island
Pousada de Horta Forte de Santa Cruz ****
Horta
http://pousadas.historichotels.es/horta.htm International freephone number 00800 3400 0034
Doubles from 92 euros
Pousadas are a group of luxury accommodation located in castles, palaces or mansions. This one is a converted fort, now a national monument, located in the historic Horta on the main ocean front.

Tour Operator:
Atlantic Holidays offers 1 week B&B for £299 per person which includes
• Return flights from Gatwick to Ponta Delgata
• 7 nights accommodation based on two people sharing a twin bedded room on bed and breakfast
• Transfers from Ponta Delgada airport
• All taxes
www.atlanticholidays.net
Tel 01452 381 888

Need to Know
Time Zone: GMT +1
Currency: Euro
Language: Portuguese
Flight Time: 4 hours
Best time to go: May to October to admire the flora and for whale watching

More information:
Portuguese National Tourist Office: Tel: 0845 355 1212 www.visitportugal.com

26 November 2007