Lille the Pink

And now, thanks to the accolade of European City of Culture 2004 (which it shared with Genoa), Lille, a university town, is well and truly on the fine French city map. It may not be as large as Paris, but it certainly is as youthful, vibrant, as sophisticated, almost as arty and definitely a great city break destination.

During the regeneration process a new futuristic looking complex was built around the station called Eurolille which comprises a huge shopping centre and a ski boot shaped office building belonging to Credit Lyonnais. The wavy glass walled station is in itself an attractive piece of architecture. Nevertheless, Lille’s true beauty lies in its revamped old town just five minutes walk from the station.

The Grand’Place (aka Place du General du Gaul because he was born in the area in 1890) is where everyone meets, especially around the fountain where the statue of the Goddess – Deese - rises majestically high into the air to commemorate the Austrian siege of Lille in 1792. The shops of the Vieux Ville (old town) are surprisingly eclectic and offer products from the world’s most fashionable designers. And when the exchange rate is good, Brits are quids in. Even the hypermarkets that Calais is so famous for, offer less ‘touristy’ prices.

Many great shopping streets fan out from the Grand’Place offering some superb fashions stores (rue de la Grande Chauss?e), antiques (rue Basse, rue d’Angleterre and the rue Masurel), speciality and eccentric boutiques, private art galleries, the obligatory department store Printemps, found on rue National and numerous home adornment shops everywhere offering wedding lists - an apt testament to the youthfulness of the city’s population.

But Lille is special for its other virtues too. It is very much a French city, but its culture is pronouncedly Flemish. The regional accent is a little different, somewhat softer than elsewhere in Northern France and locals are known as Ch’ti (like their beer) because of the unique sound of their speech. Everywhere you look in the old town there are fine examples of Flemish renaissance architecture. The best examples are found in the Grand’Place. The Vielle Bourse, constructed in 1653 and used as an open air stock exchange, is an outstanding relic of the era. Secondhand book and flower sellers gather daily plying their trade beneath the 17th century cloisters while groups of chess players meet for the next challenge. Everyone can join in – visitors too.

Its Musee de Beaux Arts in Place de la Republique is one of France’s best art galleries second only to the Louvre in Paris. It houses many masterpieces such as those by Rubens, Van Dyck and Goya. More art can be seen at the ornate Hospice Comtesse building, once a hospital but now a mini fine art museum. Other ‘must-sees’ are the city’s star shaped Citadelle a fortified barracks built by Louis XIV’s military architect Vaubhan - a self contained town believed to be the inspiration for the US Pentagon, the surrounding Bois de Boulogne park and zoo and the River Deule where glorious boat trips are available.

Fine dining can be found all around Lille, but especially in rue de Gand. No stay in Lille can be complete without trying out a typically Flemish restaurant called an Estaminet where the menu has tongue twistingly named dishes such as Potjevleesch (a terrin of three meats cooked in onions and lemon and served in a golden jelly and Flamiche (literally means cake but can be sweet or savoury) and dishes made with the local cheese Maroille. The drinks menu will be full of local beers and home made rose petal, violet or lemon flavoured drinks.

Museums

Palais des Beaux-Arts
place de la Republique
Tel: 00 33 320 06 78 00
Closed Monday am and Tuesday

Musee de l’Hospice Comtesse
32 rue de la Monnaie
Tel: 00 33 328 36 84 00
Closed Monday am, and Tuesday


Where to Eat

Fish & Seafood
A l’Huitriere
3 rue des Chats Bossus
Tel: 00 33 320 55 43 41
www.huitriere.fr.
Closed Sunday evenings
This is a gastronomic fish restaurant regarded as the best in the City. The entrance is via a fish monger, in itself famous for its mosaic fa?ade by a Breton artist called Meheut Methurin.The food is indeed delicisous, the setting overlooks some cathedral gardens and combines to make a fine dining experience
Tariff: From £40 pp

French Cuisine
La Terrasse des Remparts
Logis de la Porte de Gand
rue de Gand
Tel: 00 33 320 06 74 74
www.terrrassedesremparts.fr
This is a fine French restaurant but its location on top of one of Port de Gand, one of Lille’s gates.
Tariff: from £10.00

Flemish food
Estaminet T Rijsel
25 rue de Gand
Tel: 00 33 320 15 5 59
Closed Sunday and Monday
Rustic cooking and ambience is found within a cosy hop and bric a brac decorated Flemish pub. The Carbonade Flamande is particularly tasty – cubes of beef cooked in French beer and brown sugar and served with chunky chips.

Bakery/Confectionery
Paul
8-12 rue de Paris
Tel:00 33 320 78 20 78
This pretty bakery/confectioner overlooking place du Th?atre has been run by the same family since 1889. It is ideal for breakfast to enjoy a freshly baked bagquette or croissant with hot chocolate. Or go there for coffee and cake.

Tea time and snacks
Meert
27 rue Esquermoise
It’s Lille’s most famous patisserie and certainly de Gaul’s favourite place to buy his waffles. The shop area has fabulous fillegry galleries and its quaint caf? offers hundreds of teas and a fine selection of snacks both sweet and savoury.

Where to stay

Luxurious
Carlton Hotel ****
Tel: 00 33 320 13 33 13
A lovely hotel overlooking the Opera house. Some rooms come with jacuzzis.
Tariff from ?140.00

Mid Range
Hotel Bellevue ***
5 rue Jean-Roisin
Tel: 00 33 320 57 45 64
Located opposite the Vielle Bourse overlooking the Grand’ Place. It’s a good three star hotel but in December a big wheel is installed in the square and festivities and partying seems to go on all night so getting a good night sleep may be difficult. So ask for a room which does not look over the square.
Tarrif: From about ?75.00

Chic on a shoestring
Hotel Breughel **
5 parvis Saint-Maurice
Tel: 00 33 3 20 06 06 69
This small two star hotel offers lots of character and style with antiques placed in nooks and crannies and a lovely wrought iron lift to take you to your room.


Getting To Northern France

Great Escapes
08701 607501
www.greatescapes.co.uk


By Train

Folkestone to Calais
Eurotunnel
08705 353 535
www.eurotunnel.com

London (Waterloo) to Lille and Paris
Eurostar
0870 518 6186
www.eurostar.com

By Ferry
Dover to Dunkirk
Norfolkline
0870 870 1020
www.norfolkline.com

Dover to Calais
P&O Ferries
08705 202 020
www.poferries.com

Seafrance
08705 711 711
www.seafrance.com

Useful guide: www.channelhoppers.net

19 June 2005