Bratislava, Slovakia - Weekending With The Brat Pack

This wonderfully quaint city, is both the smallest and the youngest capital city in the Euro region, yet Slovakia's capital has emerged from its turbulent history as a microcosm of Central Europe. It encompasses both colourful architecture in its compact old town and austere, grey communist constructed buildings on the city's outer limits.

In effect it is a three language city. Once known by the Austrians as Pressburg and by the Hungarians (who once had it as their own capital) as Pozsony, Bratislava has shop signs in Slovak, German and Hungarian. The wonderfully quaint baroque old town offers Viennese cafes, Hungarian goulash and fabulous slovak beer and wine.

Tourists are traditionally from neighbouring countries astride the Danube river such and Austria and Hungary who have easy access to the city. And direct flights many UK airports to Bratislava airport, the city is an ideal weekend getaway for Brits too and the local population are just beginning to value English as a language in preference to German.

The old town is where is action is. During the day, visitors can stroll the streets in relative calm but at night it comes alive as the youth who live in Greater Bratislava come in to enjoy the plethora of bars, jazz cafes and restaurants. A lazer beam points the way from Michalska street. And at 10pm every evening there is a laser light show in the Main Square.

SIGHT SEEING

Michael's Tower
Your best bet is to start at the 14th century Michael's Tower, one of the four gates of the city, and the only one still standing. Though an arduas climb to the top, you get to view a museum of armaments on each of the 7 floors which make for a great breath catching distraction on your way up to your reward - the view. As you walk around the tower terrace you'll see the cafe life in Michaelska street, a clutch of red tiled roofs leading the eye to the castle in the distance.

Michalska Ulica, Open 11-5pm daily.

The Castle
You can see the castle from the tower, it's silhouette is that of an upturned table. Grab a drink before you make your way there as it is another steep climb up the hill. Nevertheless it is worth the effort for thethe broad view you get of the city and Austria just 3km away and even, on a sunny day, Hungary. While there, you may as well visit the Slovak National Museum housing a range of furniture.

Slovak National Museum is open 9am-5pm daily.

Novy Bridge - New Bridge
The two-layered bridge (lower level for bikes and top layer for cars) across the Danube was built by the Communists and indeed is quite an awesome sight. So is the unrelenting graffitti that covers its entire length. It is a shame that its building meant the destruction of the Jewish quarter, and that the revolving restaurant is now closed.

St Martin's Cathedral
Near to the Novy Bridge is Bratislava's most historic building the gothic cathedral. Over a period of 300 years it witnessed the crowning of a succession of Hungarian monarchs including the Habsburg empress Maria Theresa.

The Blue Church/St Elizabeth's Church
Standing in front of this art nouveau building one has to ponder the fantasy world that must have been the inspiration for this church. Designed by the Budapest architect Odon Lechner with a brief to create it in the Hungarian National Style. With much improvisation, it was completed just before the First World War. Entry is free.

Hlavne Namestie
The Main Square, (or Hlavne Namestie if you want to show off), is one of the grandest areas of the old town. Historically, this was the venue for all the main events. For instance, it was the main market place, a stage for the passion plays, general gatherings and where rulers were greeted and executions and public punishments tooks place. Its name has varied over the years. In 1373 it was called Forum, in 1404 as Marchte and im 1434 as Ring. The Germans named it Haputplatz in 1783 and in 1850 it was renamed Franz Joseph Platz. Later it was even called Hitler's Square. In 1953 it became the 4th of April Square to commemorate the the date when WWII finished in Bratislava. In 1989 it took its current name.

The Old Town Hall - Stara Radnica
This was once privately owned and known as Mayor Jacob's fortified house. It was a house walled by high stone fortification with battlements and a tower protecting the entrance. Eventually the council acquired it, expanded it and modified it creating a varied and very attractive facade containing rennaissance and gothic elemants adding both an air of elegance and an impressive gory museum of torture to the square.

Palaces
Most palaces are not open to the public but the Primate's Palace is. This is where in 1805, just after the battle of Austerlitz Napoleon and the Austrian Emperor Franz I signed the Peace of Pressburg.

Hvizdoslavovo Namestie
This tree lined piazza was named after Slovakia's favourite poet, Pavol Orszag Hvizdoslav (1849-1921). A statue of the poet stands complete with a fountain along the square.

It is home to the magnificent Slovak National Theatre built by Viennese architects Fellner and Helmer. In front the of Theatre is Bratislava�s most beautiful fountain, the Ganymnedes fountain, a gift from the Pressburg Savings Bank. The figures in the centre are carved from bronze.

The piazza is the site of Bratislava's best hotel, the five star Radisson Carlton, and the heavily guarded American Embassy.

Slovak National Gallery
The gallery is located along the Danube embankment and though it contains some important works of art, the building itself - a steel construction - is no oil painting.

Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.

Shopping
There are a few designer shops, but their products are cheaper to buy at home. The Main Square holds a daily handicrafts market. Best shopping streets are Obchodna, Michalska, Laurinska, and the main supermarket is, would you believe, Tesco (Kamenne nam 1).

What The Slovaks Eat and Drink
Eating out in Bratislava is agreeably cheap. You can get a three course meal with beer or wine and still have change from ?20.00 Local cuisine comprises potatoes, cheese and sauerkraut and the full bodied Slovak beer is, shall we say, distinctive with its thick froth and rich flavours.

The Little Carpathian Mountains are not only beautiful but they provide the country with some fabulous vinous sustenance. Lots of wine bars and cellars are on hand to profer Tokaj and Reisling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Svatovarrinecke (think Pinot Noir) wines. Restaurants serve them with dishes such as bryndozove halusky (potato dumplings with goat's cheese).

Eating Out

Roland Cafe
Hlavne Namesti 5
Fabulous variety of dishes including, fish, chicken, steak, rabbit and deer. The restaurant overlooks the main square.

Le Monde
1 Venturska
Top class restaurant offering European cusin

Kaffe Mayer
Hilvane Nam 4
Ideal for a coffee and gateaux.

WHEE TO STAY

Hotel Radisson SAS Carlton ****
Hviezdoslavovo Square
Tel: 00421-2 5939000
Web: www.radissonsas.com
This 5 star hotel started life in 1837 as the elegant Inn at the Three Green Trees. It fell into disrepair and has now been renovated and is considered one of the best hotels in Bratislava and in one of the most prime positions. Facilities include a fitness centre and hairdresser.

Tariff: From £100 per night for a double room.

Hotel Devin****

Riecna 4

811 02 Bratislava

tel: 00421-2-59985111

fax: 00421-2-54430682

E-mail: reservations@hoteldevin.sk

Web: www.hoteldevin.sk

A modern, comfortable hotel with a fitness centre and internet facilities.

4 March 2006