Ah, it’s a Spa!

As I approached this particular trilogy of buildings through the hilly terrain of Thermenland in Styria, I had to rub my eyes and refocus so that my brain could finally register that the rolling hillside was actually the roof of a candy hued Brothers Grim style building.

Curvaceous waves, gentle arcs and circular buildings contour the entire assembly of architecture - not a single straight line anywhere – not even inside. For this not just a building – it’s a habitable work of art. But it’s not just a work of art it is also a place to relax, and rejuvenate.

This is the five star Rogner Bad Blumau, probably Austria’s finest and most eccentric spa/hotel resort.It was designed by the celebrated Venitian born Friedensreich Hundertwasser nicknamed ‘Architecture-Healer’ because of his deeply held belief that humans are covered in three layers: skin, clothes and buildings. His entire career whether in pictoral art, design or architecture was based on his complete rejection of the straight line, love of bright colours, use of organic forms and a reconciliation of humans.  It seems almost logical that he design a spa where his philosophies reach out in the healing treatments.

But Thermlenland was always a spa region. The story goes that 20 years ago speculators were digging for oil and were disappointed when all they found was water, until that is, someone waded in with the discovery that the water was in fact healing thermal and volcanic water.  Then came the tidal wave of spa resorts that now make up the Thermenland of the Styrian countryside.Bad Blumau may be one of many spas in the region but it is certainly the most eccentric. Even the pathways around the property are textured because Fredensreich believed that walking on uneven surfaces was like ‘a symphony for the feet’.

Even more bizarrely is the hay wrap on the health menu designed to help rheumatic pain – but no doubt terrible for hay fever. Other treatments include the expected range of steam and saunas plus shiatsu, clay wraps, chalk wraps and even a wine wrap. There's also a Cleopatra bath, draff cocoon or a Hawaiian massage.

Best of all are the thermal springs in the in the 30,000m2 Green Lagoon area. There's 2.5 square kilometres of bubbling pure natural mineral water heated to an agreeable 36 degrees every day of the year. And the Vulkania lake which is filled with primeval water is like plunging into a huge vat of melted velvet. And when I dipped my head under I was treated to a watery rendition of Chopin. Is there no end to the sensory pleasure?. Well, no, because a quick dip in the fresh water pool to cool down was ideal before sliding into a cosy gently rocking hammock to dry off in the sunshine.
 
The resort naturally has a flurry of dining menus and meals can be taken in their bistro or in their gourmet restaurants. I went gourmet. Nothing average about that either. Beetroot dumpling with chocolate lasagne anyone?

Rogner-Bad Blumau, Hotel and Spa
A-8283 Bad Blumau
Austria
Tel: +43 03383-5100 9449
spa.blumau@rogner.com
www.blumau.com
Double rooms: 172 euros per night bed and breakfast

3 August 2005