Five Fabulous Ski Resorts, Vail, Banff, Alpe d'Huez, Mayrhofen, St Moritz

1) Vail, USA

Where: In the Colorado Rockies in Eagle County. It is a two-hour drive from Denver along the Interstate 70 highway, half an hour west of sister resorts Breckenridge, Telluride and Arapahoe Basin, and several miles from Beaver Creek.

Why go: Vail, with its Disney-style Austrian persona was built in the 1960s for an easy-going upmarket clientele, but has since transformed into the biggest resort in the US and is now the best all-round destination for everyone from the serious skier to the party type. The traffic-free village which meanders along the slopes is mostly attractive, with smart hotels, shops and restaurants. And it's not overly expensive; just don't expect bargains. The amount of skiing is huge, from the pretty, tree-lined pistes on the front face, to the big, open Back Bowls and the ungroomed Blue Sky Basin, a rugged, wooded area a 10km (6-mile) ski from the village. It has excellent beginner slopes, although they can get crowded, and endless skiing for all levels at four terrain parks. Beaver Creek, Breck, Keystone and A-Basin are on the same lift pass and there is a free bus service. Restaurants are superb with reasonably priced options, and there's a huge array of bars and clubs.

Where to stay: Scramble to get in at The Arrabelle at Vail Square, the luxury slopeside retreat in a resort where five stars are commonplace. Like a European grand hotel, it heralds the stylish rebirth of Lions Head, a modern annex to the original resort which used to look like Stevenage-on-Snow. If it's full, the Marriott Mountain Resort & Spa, The Lodge at Vail or Sonnenalp's Bavaria Haus are all excellent. Evergreen Lodge is a decent mid-market option, while you can find cheaper apartments out of town but these are often on the wrong side of the Interstate 70 highway.

More information: www.snowusa.com, Thomson Ski, Neilson, Accommodation in Vail

2) Banff, Canada

Where: In the awe-inspiring Canadian Rockies, within Banff National Park, a spot forged by the Canadian Pacific railroad more than a century ago.

Why go: Banff is a lively, historic town and you get not one but three ski areas for your money, even if they're not exactly on the doorstep. However, the journey (on a free bus) is part of the fun. Nearest is Ski Norquay, 10 minutes away. This is a small area which divides between short, pretty runs and some of the steepest bump fields you'll find anywhere. A short drive further and you find Sunshine Village, a big place with lots of open cruising, the madness of Delirium Dive (a double-black bowl) and the challenging expert area of Goat's Eye. Queen of the skiing, though, is Lake Louise, 40 minutes away. It's actually a major resort in its own right, but shares Banff's Big 3 lift pass for its mega slopes which take in easy cruising, steep bowls, powder stashes and off-piste glades.

Where to stay: Banff's icon is the Fairmont Banff Springs, a castle-like behemoth from the early days when the railroad enticed tourists to this spot. On offer is top-notch luxury in a fairytale setting, a sensational spa (when I was there last season, deer were trotting across the snowy lawn as I lounged in the outdoor pool), and fabulous restaurants. Just out of town is the less obviously imposing but luxuriously rustic Buffalo Mountain Lodge.

More information: www.banfflakelouise.com, Neilson, Thomson Ski, Accommodation in Banff

3) Alpe d'Huez, France

Where: In the southern French Alps, in the Isère département at the top of the most famous stretch of road on the Tour de France, with 21 hairpin bends in 14km.

Why go: Alpe d'Huez has all the attractions of doorstep skiing combined with a picturesque old town. The two areas drift seamlessly into one another with lifts going up in a 360-degree pattern, while a clanking people-mover, like a string of dustbins dangling from a wire, connects through the middle. The resort is at 1,860m, which tends to counter the effects of the south-facing slopes. The 245km of runs go up to a glacier and down to a couple of old villages, with much in between for everyone from ski-together families to experts (the 16km Sarenne is the longest black run in Europe). Lots of charming old French restaurants (Au P'tit Creux is one of the best) as well as plenty of lively bars and clubs (The Underground, Pacific, Crowded House) cater to the British market.

Where to stay: The smartest place is Royal Ours Blanc, right by the slopes with a pool and great views. However most hotels here are moderate, and there is an endless supply of apartments, all with easy access to the slopes and the shops. Tour operators Mark Warner, Crystal and Thomson have excellent chalet hotels here.

More information: www.alpedhuez.com, Self-catering ski accommodation in Alpe d'Huez, Neilson, Thomson Ski

4) Mayrhofen, Austria

Where: In the Austrian Tirol, up the pretty Zillertal Valley, less than an hour from Innsbruck.

Why go: Mayrhofen has been a British haunt for many years, and is now one of the liveliest resorts in Austria. The picture book-pretty village looks traditional but the late-night bars and clubs say otherwise. Yet this is a place where you can find a quiet getaway. The skiing has moved into the 21st century too. Mayrhofen's skiing starts at the top of the Penken gondola in the village centre, then sweeps down into a huge bowl. A cable car now takes you up and over to adjoining Lanersbach, creating a big area with plenty of challenges (Harakiri is Austria's steepest piste). And, last season, Austria's biggest cable car was installed on Mayrhofen's standalone mountain, the Ahorn, bringing the base area to just off the main street, effectively extending the whole region. There's lots of nightlife, much at the Sport Hotel Strass by the side of the Penken lift, starting in the semi-open air Ice Bar, carrying on through various bars (including the Sports Lounge, with live music) ending in the late-night Speakeasy Arena club. There are plenty of other options too. Hippest of all is the White Lounge at the Ahorn peak, an igloo village with bedrooms, restaurant and hip bar with DJ nights.

Where to stay: The Strass is a good option, big and bustling with good food and one of the Alps' finest spas – it's popular with Brits. The Strass also has cheaper options such as its Garni and Aparthotel, both along the main street. The town's only 5-star hotel is the Elisabeth, while there are many other stylishly traditional options such as the Neue Post and Neuhaus.

More information: www.mayrhofen.at, Neilson, Thomson Ski

5) St Moritz, Switzerland

Where: In Switzerland's beautiful Engadine Valley.

Why go: This is Switzerland's most famous and exclusive resort – and the reality lives up to the hype. The town, with its cobbled streets and elegant buildings, sits on a hill above a frozen lake which is often alive with winter horse-racing and polo. There's skiing in two main areas. Corviglia has lifts from both the posh part of town (Bad) and the less stylish Dorf (a pretty funicular). The skiing might not be packed with challenges but this is a place where the slopes are designed to flatter you. The other area is Corvatsch, a couple of miles away, where the skiing starts on a glacier and comes down with steeper runs and off-piste. Nightlife here is excellent, whether severely expensive clubs (such as Kings at the Badrutt's Palace hotel) or the three bars at the Schweizerhof, where you'll find a country band playing in one room and a pianist in the next. But while the place may appear posh, in reality many of the bars are little more expensive than most ski resorts.

Where to stay: You don't come here for a bargain stay, and the 5-star hotels are an experience not to be missed. The Suvretta House is one of my favourite hotels anywhere, out of town in the woods with its own ski lift – it's like a gigantic country house. No package tour options there, but the castle-like Badrutt's Palace, the Kulm and Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains are in the brochures (and you can get decent rates), or you can search out smaller, cheaper places and some apartments in Dorf.

More information: www.stmoritz.ch, Neilson, Accommodation in St Moritz

9 September 2008