A Champagne Weekend in Reims

Nestling in the heart of the Champagne region is an old Roman city that saw the coronation of 25 French kings, is famed for producing the ‘king of wines’ and noted for its superb Gothic architecture. With its fine restaurants and appealing countryside landscaped with vineyards, Reims makes a capital choice for a stylish and gastronomic hop across the Channel.

Why Go?
It may be summer outside but in the miles and miles of caves beneath the city of Reims it is musty and cool. Descend into the chalk caverns and see the millions of bottles coveted bubbly. Return to the surface, taste the champenoise nector and then go see the grapes being harvested.

Why now?
The entire city has been earmarked as an Art Deco City. Join in the Circuit Art Deco tour which passes monuments, facades and a variety of Art Deco architecture. www.reimsartdeco.fr

Most Outstanding Architecture
This accolade goes to the famous Reims Cathedrale, Cathedrale Notre-Dame where aptly 25 of France’s kings were crowned here starting with Clovin in 496.  It is a complex structure with an eye-brow raising 2,300 statues and that is before you have stepped a foot inside. The Cathedral incorporates the Palais de Tau which was once used as the archbishop’s palace, but now is the Cathedral’s museum.  Its immense form is pretty impressive, but there are other fine specimens too like the St. Remi Basilica. Though a lot smaller the St Remi is refreshingly decorative for a medieval construction.

Getting there
By car, make your way by ferry or the Eurotunnel train to Calais and then take A16/A26 motorway towards Dunkirk which leads you to Reims in two and a half hours.

Where to stay
Submit to the champagne lifestyle at Chateau Les Crayeres from £212 per night. Staying in one of its 19 rooms means you will be guaranteed a table at its three starred Michelin restaurant (£70-£80 per head). Boyer Les Crayeres, 64 Boulevard Henry-Vasnier (0033 326 828080) Relaischateaux.com/crayeres.

A cheaper but nevertheless stylish alternative is The Templiers. It is housed in a 19th century building and has the most beautiful wood staircase. Also it is near to the cathedral. Grand H?tel des Templiers, 22 rue des Templiers (0033 326 885508).

Which Champagne House is a  Must Visit?
There are ten great Champagne houses in Reims all of whom are happy to greet you, but if you only have time for one then go for the official Formula 1 Champagne House, Mumm. At Mumm you can just turn up, and unlike some more stuffy affairs, theirs is a slick, highly polished, entertaining tour lasting around 45 minutes that takes you on a ramble around their cellars. Entry is 4.00 euros and includes a glass of fizz. They also can arrange three hour trips vineyard tours for 18.00 euros. Mumm, at 34, rue du Champ du Mars (0033 326 495970) 

Where to eat
The locals love the reasonably priced traditional cuisine at Au Petit Baccus. It is stylish yet casual, donning a brick floor and simple wood tables set of nicely by spot lighting. Seafood lovers don’t mind shelling out for the roasted lobster or seabream cooked in champagne at le Millenaire.

Au Petit Bacchus, 11, rue de l'Universite (0033 326 471005),
Le Millenaire, 4 rue Bertin (0033 326 082662)

What to buy
Bubbley of course, but if you like antiques, then check-out  De Choses en Choses, 30 rue Colbert, and Au Faubourg, 207 rue Barbatre. Or if you fancy yourself a dab hand with a sword nip into La Boutique Champenoise  and buy a sabre (which comes with instructions), used, traditionally, to decapitate the champagne bottle. 

Where to hang out
The shopping and night life district is easy to spot near to the Cathedral at place Drouet d’Erion. Restaurants and brasseries abound.

Top Tip - How not to look foolish
Remember that Reims is pronounced Rance

The Tourist Board
12 boulevard G?n?ral Leclerc
Tel. : 0033 326 77 45 00
 www.reims-tourisme.com

The Guidebook
Channel Hoppers Guide to Champagne Ardenne. www.channelhoppers.net

11 August 2006