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Authentic Moscow

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Moscow is changing, so if you want to see the original Moscow, you had better get your skates on says Laura Leveson

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Authentic Moscow
 
 

Moscow, Russia's vibrant capital is experiencing a renaissance. The city is awash with new money and undergoing rapid development, from the underground to the skyline. Luxury brands are reaping the benefits and Muscovites are embracing this new wave of consumerism where 24hour supermarkets are rapidly becoming the norm and shopping centres, casinos, bars and restaurants are popping up.

For the real Moscow a visit the extravagant Kremlin and its towers is must-visit. The Kremlin boasts citadels, four palaces, four cathedrals, Armouries and was home to Tsars, the government and today, the president .

To get your historical bearings The Armoury museum, set between the Grand Kremlin Palace and the Borovitsky Gate, does it well with its amazing display of treasures some dating back to the 15th century. On show is a stunning collection of ancient state regalia including gold fringed gowns once worn by Tsars.

Throughout the winter months outdoor entertainment comes in the way of wintery ice-rinks with skate times by day and by night, although at times painful, great fun for all ages. Gorky Park is one such venue offering the public this sport within its stunning surroundings. At this time of year it’s quite probable to get your hands on Medovuha, a beautiful honey beer served out of great big cooking pots. It costs around 70 rubles for a cup and it’s also guaranteed to warm your cockles while on the ice.

The theatre district also comes alive by night, with ample productions to choose including the famous the famous Bolshoi Theatre, entrants.

Moscow also presents a plethora of shopping experiences from the traditional to modern; from stylish Tvertskaya Street - their equivalent to Knightsbridge to old Izmalovo Kremlin market, and everything in between. At Izmalovo you will find Matrioshkas (Russian dolls) in every shape and size, Khokhloma Russian folk crafted tableware, fur hats, ceramics, and Soviet memorabilia amongst other things. Old Arbat Street, packed with street entertainment provides another chance to pick up post-soviet souvenirs, and has a slightly more bohemian edge.

For international trademark goods, you can visit GUM (once the state department store) bordering the Red Square. Highly recommended is Yeliseyev Grocery Store, on Tverskaya Street, Moscow’s equivalent to Fortnum and Mason's; with ornate gracious interior and gourmet including extravagantly priced Belluga.

No trip to Russia is complete without sampling some vodka and a visit to the Vodka Museum at Izmalovo Kremlin demonstrates the 500 year history of Russian vodka. Here you can pick up Russia’s finest such as Snow Queen and Kauffman Vodka. Or you could seek a bottle of new 'Putinka' vodka.

Post communist Stalinism is one of the most exciting things to explore in revolutionary Moscow. It's recommended you start with a visit to Lubyanka square notoriously former headquarters of Russian KGB and if you are really keen, Go Russia can even arrange a private trip to view Stalin’s private bunker.

Top up your energy levels with hearty Russian food from regular reliable food chains with authentic rustic interiors, complete with wooden interiors and bear skin wall-decoration and waiting staff clad in traditional costume. A favourite is Olki Polki (5min walk from the Kremlin) or Moo Moo Café (Smolenskaya or Frunzenskaya Metro stations) Both are warm welcoming, child-friendly and have self service options. They serve up traditional favourites such as borsch as well as meat accompanied by Gritchkah, a light rice alternative. Wash it down with a glass of the Muscovites favourite Kvass - rye beer or for the sweeter tooth try Morss, a non alcoholic thick berry juice flavoured with cinnamon.

Glamorous new restaurants of every international cuisine are appearing throughout the capital, including Asian fusion Sky Lounge, perched on top of the Academy of Sciences a building distinguishable for its' brain-like sculptured top, commanding serious views of the city. However there are also new old-style restaurants a plenty. Splurge with a vist to Café Puskin restaurant or neighbouring patisserie, set in the grandfather of Russian literatures traditionally restored French 18th century home, arguably ‘The Best Restaurant in Moscow’.

The underground (Metro) is the most practical way to get around the centre, however before you leave it is worth realising the aesthetics of this transport system too, and taking a short tour if you haven’t already of the most historic and ornate stations, which feature chandeliers and stain glass windows, post war patriotic mosaics and sculptures.

For a short city break Moscow is ideal. It is only 4 hours away by air and 3 hours ahead and still relatively unscathed by European tourists. What struck me was the dramatic and surreal backdrop of at least one of Stalins’ 7 sisters throughout your inner city tour. Stalin’s obscenely large buildings were built with the technology of American Skyscrapers, yet in baroque, deco and gothic design. However the new economic revolution is leading the way for a new level of change, and a ‘city within a city’ has reached planning approval meaning Moscow will become home to the largest structure in the world as well as Europe's tallest building, Moskva City Business Centre. The new skyscraper is set to to dominate the skyline by 2012 standing at 600 metres certainly shadowing the Kremlin.

Be sure to make your way Moscow sooner rather than later – this is a beautifully authentic capital city on the verge of irreversible transformation.

FACT BOX

Location:
Russia
Getting there: Go Russia www.justgorussia.co.uk
Major languages: Russian
Time Zone: GMT+3
Religion: The most widespread religion in Russia is Orthodox Christianity, dominated by Russian Orthodox Church.
Currency: Rubles
Dialing code for Russia: 007 Moscow: 095
Best time to go – Winter in Moscow (December, January, especially the second half of January and February for the festivals, ice-skating and skiing in the city centre or just outside.
Visa – A visa is required

20 February 2008

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