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Deep in Guatemala’s northern jungle, the majestic cities of the Maya, such as Tikal, were buried. Temples, stelae and plazas were discovered and evidence of human sacrifice and astronomical genius were found. At first, little was known of these cities and their inhabitants, but with the passing of time the stelae – large stone monuments carved with inscriptions – have revealed the dynastic history and traditions of the mysterious Maya.
Antigua was ruined after an 18th century earthquake but its cobbled streets are lined with toppled church arches, columned courtyards, and flowers and fountains galore can be found in the multitude of preserved pastel-coloured homes. It also lies in the shadow of three volcanoes and enjoys spectacular views.
Formed by a mega explosion that blew the lid off the top of a volcanic mountain, Lake Atitlán is truly breathtaking. Over time three volcanoes were born around the edges. To the Tz’utujil Maya who live on the lakeshore, Lake Atitlán is the birthplace of creation. Numerous other Maya villages, all named after Catholic saints, nestle around its shore. Further into the Western Highlands, the bustling city of Quetzaltenango is an excellent place from which to explore volcanoes, markets and traditional villages. Further northwest is Todos Santos, where the traditional clothes of the Maya are highly colourful and its All Saint’s Day’s horse race a major attraction in the region.
Guatemala has nature’s bountiful offerings all rolled into one. Volcanoes stretch out to form the backbone of the Western Highlands, caves are riddled with stalactites and stalagmites in the southern Petén, limestone is sculptured to form spa-like pools and natural bridges at Semuc Champey, blankets of white sand coat the Caribbean Coast near Lívingston, a black sand Pacific Coast with turtles and fabulous orange sunsets can be found at Monterrico, and the howl of the monkeys and the flash of the rare scarlet macaw will capture your attention in the jungle of the northern Petén.
Potted History
Guatemala was once the very heart of the amazing Mayan civilization, a civilization which flourished up to the 10th century AD. During the 16th century, the Spanish arrived and enslaved the Mayans. The 19th century saw Gautemala being rule by a dictator who was overthrown in 1944. An enlightened government put in place reforms in the interests of the native people but attempts in land reform and a planned programme of compulsory purchase led to civil war that lasted 35 years. Many liberals including Che Guevara went into exile. Guerrilla organizations rose from this mire with Marxist communist views justifying violence. Cuba backed them.
In 1981 a small posse of Mayan leaders occupied the Spanish Embassy in Guatemala City intent on a nonviolent protest against government oppression of the native people. The response was to burn down the embassy an act which killed all the protestors and embassy staff. The Spanish ambassador however, survived. In 1996, the government signed a peace agreement formally ending the conflict, which had left more than 100,000 people dead and had created some 1 million refugees.
12 February 2008
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