Sailing Around The Coast of India

At first glance, India is all heat and dust and perpetual motion of human mass amid chaotic traffic. Beyond all that cacophony, lies a hidden jewel splendidly diverse in culture, custom, language and scenery. It is like finding a dust-covered secret treasure in the attic. The savage magnificence of ancient forts, the awe-inspiring temples and opulent palaces set in dramatic landscape is breath-taking. But the soul of India lies in its people who are tolerant, resilient and steeped in tradition whose outlook in life is to take whatever fate has to offer and get on with it.

Set against this background, I embark on a high sea adventure aboard the MS Ocean Odyssey, a modest 333ft cruise ship that has seen better days  but what it lacks in opulence it makes up with a wonderful crew who deliver services  better than any monster size cruise liner I have been on. It has an intimate atmosphere with only 46 passengers on board on my sailing and the ports of call are interesting and diverse, taking in cultural and historical sites, spiced up with adventures. There is an air of camaraderie and bonhomie among everyone, from families, young and retired couples to single female travellers.

Goa 
Starting from Goa, the ship calls on rustic ports along the Malabar coast and two inhabited islands on the Lakshadweep Islands in the Arabian Sea and Colombo in Sri Lanka spanning over two weeks. Goa’s abundant spices have drawn traders from the four corners of the world for thousands of years.  But it was the Portuguese who came, saw and conquered the land establishing a colony that was so deeply embedded into the Goanese social and economic fabric that they left indelible legacy in Goa today with its religion, heritage and culture.  Panjim, the capital is a charming city with its carefully preserved Portuguese heritage especially in the old Latin quarter of Fontainhas with its yellow, blue and pink houses and a church. Today, the only conquerors that invade Goa are thousands of tourists attracted by its glorious beaches and unhurried pace of life.

Lakshadweep Islands
The Arabian Sea is calm as we sail off the Malabar Coast towards the Lakshadweep Islands, an archipelago of 36 coral islands, mostly uninhabited. It is one of the most spectacular coral island systems in the world sparkling like emeralds on the turquoise sea. The crystal clear waters are teeming with marine life of every shape, size and hue. We drop anchor near Suheli Island, a wondrous vista of a necklace of talcum powdered coral sand embracing the island with a lush interior clad in coconut palms. The island is uninhabited and is only utilise for coconut plantation by inhabitants in neighbouring islands. The shallow coral pools by the beach are wriggling with blue parrot fish, while sting rays skirt among the corals and eels slither effortlessly along the edge of the sand. Farther out, green turtles patrol the waters among schools of fish. From the ship, we are ferried by Zodiacs to the island for a day of playing Robinson Crusoe accompanied by a lively pod of dolphins, their fins synchronising on the crest of the waves. The jolly crew go onshore to prepare a sumptuous barbecue on the beach. After one and an half days of complete chill out swimming and snorkelling, we are all geared for adventure in Cochin, our next port of call.

Cochin
Cochon, the commercial and industrial capital of Kerala, is a tantalising blend of Portuguese, Dutch and British influences woven into the social and cultural tapestry of the local Malabar roots. It is a vibrant city famous for its Chinese fishing nets, a legacy from early Chinese settlers.  These large cantilevered structures with nets are dotted all along the seafront of the city. From Cochin, we venture into the backwaters of Kerala at Alleppey, the ‘City of Canals’, on a rice barge that has been converted into a houseboat. We navigate the scenic Bamba River and the narrow canals observing village life along the way and taking in the breath-taking beauty of the lush padi fields that stretch on for miles inland. Women pounding their laundry on rocks stop momentarily to wave and smile while the men fish from narrow boats along the banks, competing with cormorants and kingfishers that lurk nearby for a quick catch. The intoxicating beauty of the river with its tranquil surrounds is the stuff of romantic adventure ideal for honeymooners and dreamers.

Kandy
The journey to Colombo is a bit turbulent as the Indian Ocean becomes temperamental. At Colombo, we head to Kandy by road to visit the elephant sanctuary in Pinnewala where about a hundred elephants are cared for, rescued from disaster or injured by man including a three-legged elephant whose front leg was blown off by a mine planted by terrorists. The large herd of pachyderm mainly of female elephants and orphaned babies frolicking on the river is a sight to behold. After their baths, the mahouts usher them through the village to a huge enclosure where they are kept. A giant bull elephant blinded by farmers  with short guns for destroying their crops is chained up for his own safety and is a favourite of many visitors for photoshoots which he seems to enjoy. The loss of their habitat creates a constant conflict between man and beast and often with casualties from both sides.

Trivandrum
After a stormy journey, we reach Trivandrum, the capital of Kerala, a rustic fishing town famous for its palace of Padmanabhapuram, the 16th century seat of the princes of Travancore who ruled much of Kerala and Tamil Nadu for over 400 years. Today it is a museum housing the royal treasures and paintings. The local market offers a colourful insight into the bustling life of the locals. Our guide Daniel is a fountain of knowledge and delivers his script with a touch of cynicism and humour on Indian society. When we chance upon a man answering nature’s call at a street corner ( a regular occurrence in the towns and cities), he quips, “In India, kissing in public is not allowed but pissing is ok.”  Charming man.

Cheriyam Island
From the ridiculous to the sublime, we anchor off Cheriyam Island a day later, our second and final call at the Lakshadweep islands. Like Suheli, it is uninhabited and designated for coconut plantations only. Paradise regain, we luxuriate on an idyllic island of powdery sand and aquamarine waters with kaleidoscopic coral gardens enlivened with exotic fish. It is a fitting end to an amazing cruise and as the sunset paints the sky vermillion, a pair of silver tuna surf the waves into the fading light.

Fact Panel

Best time  to travel  on the cruise is October to February.  For further detail and reservation contact www.indianoceancruises.net  Tel: 0800 032 7020  Email: IOC@fs-g.com

12 March 2008