Cape Verde Islands - Rising Star

They’ve been hailed as the new tourist Mecca, a paradise of sun, sea and sand - but with an Afro-European twist. Their beaches have been compared favourably with those in the Caribbean. Some say they are the new Canaries - or at least the Canaries as they were ‘unspoilt’ in the 1960s. Meanwhile investors are buying up land with ferocity and new-builds are scattered along the coastlines in various stages of construction.

With all the hype you could be forgiven for thinking the Cape Verde Islands - an archipelago of 10 islands and five islets,1000 miles south of the Canary Islands and just off the west coast of Africa – had suddenly erupted from the sea providing travel junkies with a welcome alternative to the well-trodden trails around the world.

A Portuguese colony until 1975 the Italians, Portuguese and Germans have long discovered the islands’ potential as a holiday destination – and investment opportunity. On the Island of Sal there is even a walled settlement know locally as ‘The German Village.’ The properties there will probably now be worth several times what their owners paid for them. Why? Because certainly on the islands of Sal and neighbouring Boavista the beaches do rival those in the Caribbean. As you step onto the golden sand your feet are caressed by its fluffy-softness and met by luscious, luke-warm, turquoise waters.

Until November the 2nd 2006, to get to Cape Verde from Britain you had to fly to Lisbon, and then wait around five hours for a connecting flight. Now Astraeus offer direct flights from Gatwick and Manchester and the entire journey takes only six hours. Plus with only a two-hour time difference there’s no jet lag.

The Cape Verde islands offer year-round sunshine making them the perfect escape for work-weary, sun-deprived Brits. If you want more than sun, sea and sand, though, book an island-hoping package with a specialist tour operator – it’s so much easier than organising domestic transportation independently.

I visited Sal to unwind on the beach for a few days and float in the pools of the island’s salt pans. I then took a short flight to the island of Sao Vincente which is far less touristy. The capital Mindelo is a faded colonial treasure with cosmopolitan nightlife – which doesn’t really start to liven up until 3am on week nights, later at the weekend.

Away from town watch, fisherman land their catch at the beach of San Pedro; take a dip with the locals at Crocodile Bay - where lava flows have formed (crocodile-free) rock pools and then end your day with a bird’s eye view of the island at sunset from the peak of Monte Verde.

Walkers should venture on by ferry to Santo Antao to hike the lush hillsides. On arrival you’ll think you’ve come to the wrong place as a dusty, barren landscape greets, however as a rickety pick-up transports you across the mountain peaks from south to north the vegetation resembles a hypnotic botanical garden. Guides will then lead you down the hillsides on ancient paths through sleepy rural villages where shy, curious children pose happily for photographs.

So, are there any negatives to taking a break in Cape Verde? Well, the food is plain and basic and away from the resorts the towns are a little rough around the edges - an unwelcome reality check for those holiday makers who would prefer not to see the locals living in makeshift shacks without mains electricity or running water.

If managed properly tourism could really help to raise the standard of living here. I feel enormously hopeful that this will happen. The Cape Verdeans appear to have a tremendous sense of community and the government a keen sense of responsibility to their people and landscape.

I would recommend you visit, not only will you have a fabulous and often pure travel experience you can also bring much needed work and wages to the islands’ inhabitants.

13 April 2007