Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany

"Ozapft Is!" ("It's tapped!") proclaims the Lord Mayor of Munich as he taps the first beer barrel, ceremoniously commencing the 175th autumnal Oktoberfest experience.

One does not need to don the traditional lederhosen or dirndl to enter the Oktoberfest grounds. Nor does one need to bellow out their rendition of the famous German drinking song, "Ein Prosit", as you clink steins with a collection of congenial celebrants. Yet you would definitely not be alone if you proceeded to do so.

The sign over the northern entrance welcomes visitors to Oktoberfest, which unlike some national exhibitions is free of an admission fee to the grounds. Along a lengthy avenue, all six of Munich’s major breweries are represented in seven festival halls (bierzelten), with the Hofbräuhaus being able to accommodate 10,000 thirsty patrons. A total of 14 "Big Tents" (sponsored halls) occupy the grounds which are shared by smaller breweries, as well as wine and champagne producers. In front of the mammoth tents one can usually find the beer company's colourfully decorated horse-drawn beer carts on exhibit.

Ironically, Bavarian Prince Luitpold, whose ancestors founded Oktoberfest, has been denied permission to set up a tent for his Kaltenberg brewery. Only breweries within Munich's city limits qualify; much to his chagrin, Kaltenberg lies just outside of Munich.

"Many Muncheners prefer to travel outside the city during the festival," said Heinrich, a lifetime resident. "I rather enjoy having the world coming to me instead." Up to four thousand revellers cram the decoratively displayed interior while an army of waitresses generally clutch eight, one litre steins known as "masses" for dauntless deliveries through the multitude of sudsy aficionados. The centrally located brass oom-pah-pah band often generates an adrenalin-jolting series of instrumentals for the appreciatively demonstrative patrons.

Off the main avenue at Mathias-Pschorr Strasse stands the 30 metre-high (approx. 100 foot) bronze statue of Miss Bavaria (1853) towering above the 130 steps frequently occupied by reposing visitors. Originally, Oktoberfest was a wedding celebration in 1810 for Crown Prince Ludwig and his Princess Therese, henceforth the Oktoberfest site, Theresienwiese (Therese's Meadow) or Wiesn as known by the locals, was named in her honour. A celebratory horse race was held as part of the royal nuptials with Bavarian townsfolk bedecked in assorted costumes. Consequently, this folk-fest has been perpetuated as a veritable tradition, with the absence of horse racing but the presence of beer tents since 1818.

Following the opening day ceremonies, the extensive Costume and Marksmen's Parade is held on Sunday morning. A 12th century monk dressed in black and yellow robes is the Muenchner Kindl, a civic symbol that is invariably an attractive female mounted on a mare who rides side-saddle along the parade route.

For two hours the impressive procession wends its way through the Old City. More than 7,000 marchers clad in folk costumes participate in this colourful spectacle which extends over 6km. Myriad marching bands, float-riders and horsemen attired in medieval soldiers and hunters garb, brandish assorted archaic weaponry and meander through the streets to the oval-shaped meadow. If any marchers get weary or thirsty they merely hop aboard a regionally sponsored horse-drawn beer cart or float to appease their thirst with a Bavarian brew or two. Unfortunately, it is not permissible for the public to participate in such replenishment.

Annual attendees from around the globe exceed 6 million individuals who have the opportunity to experience the world's largest organized folk festival. Actually, only 15% of all visitors are from foreign countries. Who knows maybe one will see Joseph Ratzinger, a.k.a. Pope Benedict XVI. After all, he is Bavarian."I think many foreigners still have trouble believing this is a family festival. This event is for all ages," stated Klaus, gesturing toward the various rides on the grounds. It remains a family affair with coffee and tea (225,000 cups), and soft drink consumption (910,000 bottles) surpassing the ubiquitous brew.

During this 16 day ambrosial cornucopia, 35,000 kg of grilled fish; 520,000 roasted chicken pieces; 145,000 pairs of pork sausages and more than eight dozen broiled oxen will be devoured and washed down with over 6.9 million litres of specially brewed Oktoberfest beer, not to mention the 115,000 litres of wine and schnapps. I acquired some sustenance by consuming a 15 inch (38 cm) diameter pretzel and a piece of chicken (brathendl).

A vast array of articles go astray during the course of the festivities. In an average year, 6,000-plus objects are turned in to the lost and found . "Last year 40 cellular phones and four dentures were recovered," a festival representative told me. "Also 65 children were lost on the exhibition grounds...........temporarily," she added. Security confiscated an astounding 210,000 beer mugs from overzealous "souvenir hunters".

Due to the 1615 Purity Decree (Reinheitsget), there are absolutely no additives in German beer, only natural ingredients. This continues to be strictly adhered to and only recently have they permitted foreign beer to be purchased in the nation. The imported brew, with its additives and preservatives, has a longer shelf-life unlike the Oktoberfest draught beer which is promptly consumed. In North America, beer is generally equated with drugs while in Germany it is officially recognized as a food or "liquid bread".

If one is looking for a refreshing change of pace away from the congested Oktoberfest festivities, merely take a walking tour through modern München. Numerous air raids had razed nearly half of the city, decimating its eight centuries of historical monuments. Post-war reconstruction developed almost 5km (3 miles) of pedestrian zones in the centre of the city where the main square is situated.

Here at the Marienplatz are the old (1474) and new (1909) Town Halls (Rathaus). The latter, an imposing neo-Gothic structure, is the focal point of an attentive assemblage every day at 11:00 am and 5:00pm. Contained in the central tower is the famous Glockenspiel which displays knights on horseback and folk dancers who revolve on two levels as the giant music box (carillon) plays 90 metres (295 feet) above the square.

In addition to the charming squares and clock towers, an assortment of statues, fountains, parks and city gates are equally captivating. However, if you still desire to imbibe but you are Oktoberfested-out, simply stroll a few blocks away from Marienplatz to 5 Burgstrasse where the Weinstadl is located. This is Munich's oldest tavern (1551) and is a quaint establishment with its unique painted brick facade and vaulted ceiling interior.

Another local watering-hole is the infamous Hofbräuhaus where Hitler's aborted 1923 Putsch occurred, albeit a decade later he consolidated his power. A musical quartet provides the 16th century beer hall with an instrumental background for the often clamorous atmospheric eruptions elicited by the patrons. Meanwhile, an occasional novice visitor may gaze to the ceiling in futility, trying to search for the illusive bullet hole which occurred during the ill-fated uprising. Do not feel inhibited to indelibly carve your initials into one of the many wooden tables because in due time your inhibition will succumb to a barrage of boisterous benevolence and Bavarian bravado.

At most of the kneipe (local tavern) the tourist will probably not qualify for a stammtisch, a large table reserved for faithful customers. These seats are an honour earned only through repeated patronage and respected friendship. Also, you may want to curb any temptation to ring the bell hanging on the wall or you will be obligated to buy a round of drinks for your companions. Pros’t!

FACT FILE:

* Oktoberfest runs for 16 days: Saturday Sept. 20th/08 to Sunday Oct. 5th/08.

* If you decide to stay in the city or its environs, it is recommended to make reservations several months in advance, as well as table reservations in beer tents which start in September.

* Hackerbrucke station is the nearest S-Bahn to the grounds.

* Admission to the fairgrounds is free.

* Beer Hall hours: 10:00am to 11:30pm.

* Amusement Rides & Sideshow hours: noon to 11:30pm.

* Glockenspiel performs daily in the Marienplatz at 11:00am and 5:00pm from May to October.

For further information contact your nearest German National Tourist Office:
Telephone: 1-877-315-6237

Websites: www.oktoberfest.de / www.munich.de / www.germany-tourism.de

Photo Credit: German National Tourist Office (GNTO)

Want to visit a beer festival in England, try the Eastbourne Beer Festival 

14 July 2008