I grew up in Sydney, Australia and spent most of my youth in the suburbs that fall under the familiar moniker: the Northern Beaches. Soft white sandy coast coupled with crashing breakers and glistening green-blue ocean. Paradise? Absolutely.

It wasn't long until I found myself living in the Eastern Suburbs, an area of Sydney known to locals as one of the most beautiful and effervescent places to live and a must-see if you're planning a visit. The fabulous beaches this area is famous for include: Watsons Bay, Coogee, Tamarama, Bronte, Bondi, and Clovelly. All these beaches are magnificent in their own right, however it was one in particular that captured my heart.

Only 20 minutes from the city center is Bondi Beach, an idyllic oasis hidden in a big cityscape. This is the place that I called home for many years. I would spend hour upon hour playing in the waves or soaking up endless warmth lying flat on my back, eyes shut, relishing well-known sounds and smells. Seagulls squawking, people laughing, sea salt spray hissing as it brushed against cliff rock, and windy silences that permeated gaps in this summer soundtrack. Aromas of beachside barbies, coconut oil lotion, salt-filled air, and sunscreen were just some of the daily nuances that made Bondi a place that I'll never forget.

As unique as their surroundings, the residents of Bondi include a splattering of personalities, from transient Irish and English backpackers to reformed travellers who have become sedentary having chosen Bondi as their permanent new home. Thrown into the mix are professional single twenty-somethings and eclectic artists, mainly actors and musicians, who have come to Bondi to use its beauty as inspiration to achieve their aspiring big-time dreams. The homogenized energy from this varied group creates excitement, and spiritedness that is unique unto Bondi itself. Bondi’s charm captures many people’s hearts. It has the ability to erase the stress of daily life and give the elusion of life as a constant tropical holiday. A lifetime can fly past, always enjoyed and never forgotten in this fantastical beachside world.

When in Bondi...

Eat:
If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Bondi, be sure to start your day at one of the numerous seaside cafes that hug Campbell Parade, (the main drag) or dot the shoreline. I spent countless weekend mornings eating eggs, sausages, and crispy thick toast at one of the plethora of eateries by the beach. But be warned; cafes close to the beach fill up quickly so it’s advisable to grab your seat by 9am, especially on a Saturday or Sunday.

It’s not only breakfast that Bondi does well. There’s also a diverse array of cuisine to choose from when it comes to lunch and dinner. No matter what your tastebuds desire, you are bound to find a menu to suit your mood. Thai, Italian, Greek, Mediterranean, casual pub grub or upmarket sophistication - you name it, Bondi's got it.

Play:
After you've let your food digest, head to the beach if it is a balmy day. The average temperature in Sydney during summertime is 26 degrees Celsius and during winter that figure only drops to approximately 15 degrees during the day. Chances are, you'll be in meteorological luck no matter what season you visit.

Similar to the cafés, on hot summer days the beach tends to crowd so you'll be thankful for a local tip: head to the north end of the beach and walk all the way around, past the ice-cream truck, to the rocks. Follow the locals and keep walking off the pavement and over the rocks until you reach an area that has a boat ramp and a few beached dinghies. There is no beach here, but many large rocks make fantastic sand-free sunbathing spots. If you're feeling adventurous, take a leap from the rocks where Bondi natives jump into the crashing waves below.

If you’re not much of a swimmer or beachgoer, but still want to relish the beachside scenery, the best place to do this in the eastern suburbs is by doing the Bondi to Bronte cliff top walk that hugs the bluffs that lead the way from Bondi to Coogee beach. Start at the north end of Bondi beach and follow the pathway to outstanding views of kamikaze waves, endless horizon, blue-green water, surfers, dolphins, and – depending what season you go – a glimpse of a whale mid-migration.

Shop:
The Bondi Markets are a well-known destination for bohemian locals and trendy bargain hunters alike. Every Sunday from 10am until 5pm the Bondi Public School grounds convert into a conglomerate of clothing, music, books, antique jewellery, pottery, sweet smelling incense, bouquets of tropical flowers, accessories, bath products, shoes, leatherwork and more. Other popular places to shop include trendy boutiques such as Marcs and Tuchuzy and funky consignment stores such as Puff ‘n’ Stuff and it’s sister store Puff ‘n’ More Stuff. Bondi caters to both the fashionista and the poor artist budget, and with such an assorted mix of taste you’re sure to find your fashion feet.

Drink:
Bondi definitely has unique beauty and soul, but it wouldn’t be the suburb that it is without the abundance of well trodden drinking holes to quench all thirsts. Pubs and bars are at the heart of what makes Bondi tick, bringing together the local and transient in friendly affairs of Aussie culture at its boozing best. The Bondi Hotel, Beach Road Hotel, and the Bondi Icebergs have all played a role in many a sore head that I have woken with on a Sunday morning. Some of my fondest memories are of afternoons spent with dear friends, sipping cold ones in the beer garden of the Beach Road or on the balcony of one of the most extraordinary pubs in Sydney; the Icebergs. Perched regally on prime real estate, the Bondi Icebergs sits atop the north end cliffs overlooking the entire length of the beach with a vertical drop towards the ocean below.

IN THE KNOW ...

Bondi’s breakfast hot spots

Le Paris-Go Café
38 Hall Street
A very popular café with kitschy décor and patrons to match. Come here for all day breakfasts and creamy smoothies.

Bondi Kiosk
110 Ramsgate Ave, (corner of Campbell Parade)
A superb setting if lady luck shines upon you and you manage to grab a seat outside. Having lived above this small café, I spent many a morning, having freshly rolled out of bed, sipping coffee while munching away on their delectable Spanish omelette.

Speedos
126 Ramsgate Ave
Opens early, (5.30am) and closes late, (sunset), Speedos café is situated right on the beach – literally. Sit outside at one of the small tables or inside along a bench that overlooks the northern end of Bondi beach. The menu boasts ricotta, banana, and honey Turkish toast as well as traditional burgers and salads.

Brown Sugar Nights
106 Curlewis Street
A tiny but popular hole-in-the-wall eatery sans view. What it lacks in view it makes up for in décor and a delicious menu to boot.

Bondi Trattoria
34 Campbell Parade
Located on bustling Campbell Parade this is the perfect location to hone your voyeur skills. Watch suffers as they attempt to catch that elusive wave or giggle at the assortment of parading people from the pretentious to the bohemian. Enjoy delectable dishes of Italian-Aussie fusion cuisine.


Shop

Bondi Markets
Located in the Bondi Public School grounds on the corner of Campbell Parade and Warner’s Avenue. Expect to find the unexpected.

Bondi Night Markets
On the concourse that runs off Campbell Parade and down towards Gould Street, opposite the pedestrian light crossing and the Bondi Pavilion. Dig deep to find hidden treasures and crafty gems.

Puff ‘n’ Stuff
96 Glenayr Avenue
Here you’ll find some great retro pieces. Funky and eclectic outfits come thick and fast in these well known consignment stores.

Marcs
118 Campbell Parade
For Aussie designer flare head to Marcs. Classy and sophisticated style with prices to match.

Tuchuzy
90 Gould Street
For the ultimate Bondi fashionista. Designer gear, hefty price tags, and nothing but up to the minute styles and trends.


Eat

The Bondi Icebergs Dining Room
1 Notts Avenue
Tel: (02) 9365 9000
Definitely not for the shallow-of-wallet, but with a view to die for and food to match dining here is well worth the money.

Doughboy Pizza
290 Campbell Parade
Tel: 9365 5000
A quaint, (aka tiny) romantic pizza parlour. The atmosphere is romantic and the pizza toppings unique.

Thai Terrific
147 Curlewis Street
Tel: (02) 9365 7794
Unbeatable Thai at a fair price. Busy, noisy, delicious, fun.

Mojo’s Café & Tapas Bar
32 Campbell Parade
Tel: (02) 9130 1322
My all time favourite tapas bar. Come here for thickly sliced fried haloumi cheese, saffron prawns, spicy squid and jugs filled with the most flavourful sangria in all of Sydney.

Hurricane’s Grill & Bar
130 Roscoe Street
Tel: (02) 9130 7101
You'll be crying into your baked potato if you don't order the pork ribs that arrive dripping in sauce and come from the fattest little piggies this side of Denmark.


Play:

The Beach Road Hotel
71 Beach Road
(02) 9130 7247
Live music and a club ambience amalgamate upstairs. Pub fare and boozing locals unite downstairs. If you’re a spots fan you’ll enjoy many a grand final on the big screens in this pub.

Ravesis
Corner of Campbell Pde & Hall St
(02) 9365 4422
Be sure to dress in your highest heels and grab a seat by the large windows that overlook the beach, or dance the night away in the charmingly small nightclub downstairs.

The Bondi Icebergs
1 Notts Avenue
Tel: (02) 9365 9000
Head downstairs to the pub section of this Bondi icon for unsurpassed views and ice-cold brews.

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1 October 2008