I was recently milling around Boulogne's farmers’ market at Place Dalton, enjoying the hustle of the traders, practising my Franglais and rubbing shoulders with the droves of locals as they went about buying provisions for their larders. Business was brisk, the atmosphere vibrant and the steeple of the 13th century St-Nicolas church (the oldest in town) located in the hub of the market, glowed in the morning sun.

In between shopping, I took pictures as euros changed hands for farm fresh cheese, home-made honey, jams and fish soup, strings of garlic, chicory, fish, meat, vegetables and flowers; and as I snapped away market traders stopped to smile at the camera as the ‘Anglaise’ took her shot.

Brits have been visiting this pretty coastal town for so long that the Boulognese are used to having us around and have even come to rely on cross-channel tourism to bolster their coffers. Hoverspeed stopped operating on the Dover-Boulogne route in 2006 but when Speedferries took up the mantle later that same year a collective sigh of relief could be heard across the town.

In January 2009, Speedferries were forced to stop operating and all seemed lost until L D Lines took over the route in May 2009 with a new dynamic fleet.

Their newest offering, the Norman Arrow, sails from Dover's Eastern docks and in just over an hour you'll be in the heart of Boulogne's thanks to the port’s location at the foot of the town centre.

So now that normal service to this charming old town has resumed, what does Boulogne offer the day tripper or weekender?

Families on a day-out should not miss Nausicaa,  probably the world’s finest aquarium, where you can enjoy close encounters with around 35,000 species of marine life. Sharks swim overhead, rays approach to have their chins stroked while odd looking beings stare back at you through the glass. But most impressive is how the centre ingeniously brings the sea and all its glorious fauna and flora to life, especially in its reconstructions. Madacascar, for example, has been reproduced to show off its exceptional biodiversity. I particularly enjoyed the replica beach of the Cape in South Africa where real penguins shuffle up close before diving back into the water.

Though Boulogne has a beach, where sandyachters whizz by at the whim of the wind, there’s a more family-friendly stretch of sand in the next town, just a mile or so away, at Wimereux. Locals holiday here and as a result there’s all the facilities a young family would expect for an enjoyable day out by the sea.

For shoppers, visiting the farmer’s market is an ideal introduction to its town, but Boulogne’s lower town also has a compact pedestrianised area on Rue Thiers. This is where my all-time favourite family-run cheese shop, Philip Olivier, can be found. This charming outlet is run by the fourth generation of the same family and Philip Olivier, a master of cheese, remains as enthusiastic as ever.

Of the 300 or so cheeses on offer, 30 of them are regional. His favourite is La Vieux Boulogne, made with cow’s milk, washed in beer to be eaten at its prime nine weeks later. Monsieur Olivier suggests it is best downed with the regional Deux Caps beer. Be warned though, this cheese has not been crowned the world’s ‘smelliest’ for nothing. For something more delicately scented try his Livarot, a soft, cow’s milk cheese or his Reblochon both of which won him a gold medal.

Opposite is a specialist wine shop Tresor de Vins selling wines from Alsace, Burgundy, Rhone, Loire and Champagne. It is owned by Jean-Luc and Agnes Malkowiak who bill their shop as 'le cave des passionnes', (a wine cellar for the passionate). For a more eclectic mix of wines though Try Le Chais, in rue des Deux Ponts, which sells more than 50,000 different wines in atmospheric cellars.

Also on the Rue Thiers is the tiny outlet of Chocolats de Beussent, whose delicious chocolates are made at a factory in nearby Beussent (open to the public) using cocoa harvested from their own plantation in Ecuador.

Boulogne is one of France’s premier fishing ports, so here’s a tip: if you love fish, be sure to take a cooler bag because the fish sold at the portside fish market at Quai Gambetta is not only reasonably priced but has been deposited by trawlers that same morning. So be sure to take advantage pick up your favourite catch of the day.

Looking upwards the town’s most prominent landmark, the cathedral dome, dominates the skyline. It stretches out from the Haut Ville (upper town), and marks out the the town’s most beautiful section  - its ancient, completely walled, Vieux Ville (old town).

It’s a steep walk up to the ramparts but this cobbled area is ripe for romantics. Once through the wall gates, the rising Rue de Lille is where all the quaint arts and crafts shops, cafés and restaurants including one whose every dish is made with cheese are located. At the top of Rue de Lille I can recommend Vole Hole as a fine wine bar to sup a glass or two.

The ramparts themselves are remarkably in tact and are superb for a quiet ramble along its tree lined paths. The views over both the old and new town are gorgeous. This is also home to the moated 13th century Chateau Musee, once the stronghold of the Count of Boulogne, and its museum really worth a visit. Cross the narrow stone bridge and enter through the castle gates. Inside are collections from several prominent anthropologists from Boulogne who contributed relics from ancient Egypt, some superb Eskimo masks, as well as displays from ancient Greece, South Sea islands and also French historical collections.

Though there are many snackeries in Bolougne, but why not dine at a restaurant that specializes in the local speciality, fish. Aux Pecheurs Etaples, opposite the farmers market, is a fine example. It is run by a corporation of fishermen (who also manage a superb fishing museum in the nearby town of Etaples). There’s a brasserie style restaurant in the front, a fishmonger and at the rear is their gastronomic fish restaurant decked out in sailor memorabilia. I enjoyed a delicately cooked lemon sole Meunière dished up with frites and a glass of white wine for 20 euros.

Most hotels in Boulogne are three star are two or three star, and Hotel Ibis near the old town offers budget accommodation from 57 euros for a double room. Hotel de la Matelote though offers quaint four star accommodation and a fine dining restaurant too. Doubles start at 80 euros.

But for something a little special, check out Hotel Clery. This is a fabulously elegant chateau just a few miles from Boulogne at Hesdin L’Abbe. It is a little pricey at 130 euros for a double room, but what price romance?

1 June 2009