Traditionally, holiday-makers to Egypt have seen the lush green banks of the mighty River Nile from their pool side on a cruise ship. Sharron Livingston delves further.
17 July 2007
The views from a Nile cruise are beautiful, but those with a little intrepid curiosity will find that just further inland, the lush greenery gives way to the coppery sands of the sun-bleached Western desert of Egypt. Often it is upon these sands that the magnificent tombs and temples of the world’s greatest ancient civilization tell all through their death rituals, about their way of life and the gods they revered.
Ancient Egyptians were a phenomenal success story and no other civilisation has had the same staying power. Their Pharaohs sometimes doubled as gods and they ruled for 3000 virtually uninterrupted years from 2686 BC to AD 391 when the Byzantine Emperor Theodosins I closed all pagan temples throughout the Roman Empire. The Old Kingdom, the period through 3rd to 6th dynasties, left a spectacular legacy of pyramid building and the best are at Giza built for pharaohs of the fourth dynasties who ruled through 2589-2504 BCE.
Giza Pyramids, Cairo – Seventh Wonder of the World
Amazingly the Giza Pyramids are located just a hop and a skip from the Cairo metropolis separated from the city by a short drive and a few shacks. Arrive as early as you can as by 8am tourists will have started to filter in and a gaggle of galabia-clad traders are poised for trade selling their camel rides, souvenirs and trinkets. It can be tiresome but worth it to see the awesome pyramid – the largest is an impressive 146.5 metres high construction of two and a half million limestone blocks that illuminate magnificently in the morning light. It was built to be a burial chamber for Cheops (aka Khufu), a notoriously cruel 4th Dynasty pharaoh of ancient Egypt’s Old Kingdom. The second pyramid was built by Chephren (aka Khafre). The third belongs to Pharaoh Mycernius (aka Menkaure). This one may be the smallest but it is said to be made of the finest stone. Architects still haven’t fathomed why or even how the Giza pyramids were put together. Entry into the pyramids is a lottery – literally – and only 100 tourists are awarded entry - a scheme to maintain the level of humidity inside the tombs.
Nearby the 60 metre long and 20 metre high Sphynx which sits near the former quarry actually looks small by comparison. This sandstone sculpture was the work of Cheops’ son Chephren, some say in his own image. The story of its location is in itself intriguing. During the equinoxes on 21-22 march and 21-22 September, the sun sets at the southern point of Chephren’s pyramid aligned with the axis of the Sphinx. As the sun sets, the shadows of the pyramid and Sphinx actually merge into one. According to legend it was built to invoke the Sphynx’s ability to ward off evil. Sadly, the sphinx is withering away with the winds and the sandstorms and worse it is doomed to watch the sun setting over the roof tops of KFC and Pizza Hut into eternity. Is this the price of fame?
Meidum Pyramid
The first sight of the Meidum Pyramid from the road is actually disorienting. It in no way resembles the iconic pyramids at Giza, having a stepped tower shape protruding out of a sand pile. This pyramid was probably built during the reign of the 4th Dynasty King named Sneferu.When it was constructed it did have an outer casing to give it the pyramid look, but that has since fallen away. There is something about hypnotic about this pyramid that gives the impression of it growing out of the earth, no matter which side you look from.
A steep sand ramp on its north face reaches the stair case which leads to the entrance and then a steep stairway descends 190 ft into the antechamber. From here you can climb another ladder to the rather claustrophobic main tomb.
Meidum also has the oldest surviving causeway. It is definitely worth visiting to venture into a tiny chapel at its end.
Pyramid of Amenemhet III at Hawwara 169km South of Cairo
As time passed, the fashion for tombs changed and by the 12th Dynasty, standards seemed to slip. Pharaoh Amenemhet III ruled Egypt for 46 years during the 12th Dynasty from 1831 to 1786 BCE. Inexplicably, he had two pyramids built and this was the second. This pyramid was never a beauty and the winds of time have moulded its apex into a rounded hill-like shape. Strange as it sounds, this pyramid disintegrated because the builders used cheap material. The core was built entirely of mud-brick stones with only an outer mantle in limestone and that has been mostly pilfered leaving a sad looking mound of mud. Entry into the pyramid is almost impossible because it was built close to the Fayoum oasis and water levels have risen since ancient times
In Roman times it stood adjacent to a huge mortuary temple - a labyrinth - thought to be the largest ever. Herodotus even boasted of 3,000 chambers. All you can do now is imagine what it must have looked like as you walk among the relics and the countless bits of ancient pots strewn everywhere. Every now and again you can see crude attempts by visitors to piece together an entire pot but even if they had managed it, getting it past the tourist police would be another challenge, although for some ‘bucksheesh’ (a tip) a porter will secrete a piece of pottery into your hand.
Beni Hassan tombs
The village of Beni Hassan, named after an old Arab Tribe, nestles midway between Minya and Mallawi just East of the Nile It is ordinary enough, modest even, but, built into the barren limestone cliffs above the village are the Beni Hassan rocks tombs which are anything but ordinary. They are a series of ancient tombs where wealthy provincial dignitaries of the Middle Kingdom (2050–1800 BC) were interred. Although there are 39 tombs only four of the tombs in this necropolis are open to visitors. It’s a long climb of what seems like countless steps to reach the cliff tops but the depth of insights found in the stories told on the tomb walls make it all worth while.
The tomb walls are completely covered with images and hyroglyphics telling the story of how the interred lived their lives. The best preserved is the tomb of the Governor Khnomhotep (number 3) showing well rounded, colourful scenes of his life at work, and playful imagery of monkeys collecting figs, men wrestling, kids playing leapfrog, and even Khnomhotep at the barber. The vibrant colours were created from plant and rock minerals and then plastered with egg white and honey to create a pleasing shiny effect. More lifestyle imagery appears in Amenemhet’s tomb, but he also had his artist include an image of a false door toward the west, the direction where the dead pass through to the afterlife.
City of the Dead, Minya
From the stark cliffs tops the view over the surrounding villages is quite a staggering contrast – a motley mix of desert and lush greenery with fields growing aubergine and cabbage. You can even see the City of the dead (Zawiyet el-Mayyiteen) around 30km north at Minya, known as the world’s largest burial ground. It is an amazingly attractive view of mini white-domed tombs that seem to twinkle under the Egyptian sun. Certainly if you are driving through Minya, count this as a must-see.
Tuna El-Gebel
At Tuna El-Gebel, 60km south of Minya and 5km from Hermopolis, is the necropolis of Khmun. It is one of those rare gems, in tourist terms, that receives few visitors, mainly because it is difficult to get to and historically it is difficult to place into a framework. No celebrious personalities lay here and no historical events took place here. What makes it so fascinating are the catacombs, a rare occurrence in Egypt. These were of course graves, not just for people but also sacred animals, especially baboons and ibis both associated with the God Thoth. Most of the ibis have been stolen or destroyed and a single mummified baboon has survived and can be seen in a back-lit glass-topped shrine close to the entrance.
The highlight of Tuna El-Gabel is the Tomb and Chapel of Isadora. She was a woman of some wealth who lived during 2nd century CE. After she suffered an untimely death by drowning in the Nile she was mummified and is still so wonderfully preserved that you can go see her as she lays peacefully in a glass cage. Many put her excellent condition down to the dry desert air rather than the quality of the embalming
Abydos Temple
Somewhere in Egypt’s ancient history, temples became the preferred construction for dealing with death and indeed the gods. The oldest date from the twelfth dynasty but the most magnificent is the Temple of Seti I at Abydos in Upper Egypt.
This is an immensely impressive Nineteenth Dynasty limestone temple. The temple is known for its L-shape and its seven vaulted chapels each dedicated to the major gods of Egypt. You can get all the godly gossip on the amazing bas-reliefs on the temple walls and even more significant is the ‘Table of Abydos’, a chronological list showing cartouche names of each dynastic pharaoh. To this day the temple is a pilgrimage site for people to worship the gods of Osiris Ruler of the Underworld, resurrection and agriculture, his mother Isis, his father Ra and brother Horus. Headline news is the resurrection of Osiris: Seth, the god of winds, storm, evil and darkness killed Osiris and scattered his body parts around Egypt. His mother Isis, found them all, pieced them together and resurrected her son with the Ritual of Life, later given to the Egyptians so that they could give eternal afterlife to all their dead.
To this day these gods invoke potent spirituality in pilgrims who come here to meditate.
Luxor, Valley of the Kings,
The golden age of the New Kingdom was ruled over by pharaohs of dynasties of 18-20th dynasties (1570-1070 BCE). By this time the pyramids style tomb had been abandoned in favour of tombs built into the limestone rocks and these kings embarked on monumental building projects like the Valley of the Kings.
Inside are the 62 tombs of the Kings of Thebes (as Luxor was known then). The most famous tomb was found by Howard Carter in 1922 who uncovered the amazing treasures of Tutenkamun’s tomb the only one left unplundered. The longest, a generous 100 metres, belongs to Seti I. All its eleven chambers contain well preserved reliefs. One is decorated with the Ritual of the Opening of the Mouth – an assertion that the mummy’s eating and drinking organs were in tact. To see the sarcophagus however, you will have to go to the Sir John Soam’s Museum in London.
Luxor Temple
This amazing temple on the east bank of the Nile was dedicated to the Theban Triad of Amun-Re, his wife Mut, and his son Khonsu. There are six segments to the temple: The Pylon, The courtyard, the hypostyle hall, the second hall, the sanctuary and the sacred lake. But first take in the view from the streetside to really get a feel of its dimensions and indeed its majesty. When you pass through the avenue of sphinxs to reach the temple and wonder through the rows of palm columns in the courtyard, settle into a discovery mode that could last hours and drink in the godly atmosphere. After-all you will be entering into places that ordinary ancient Egyptians could only dream of.
FACT File
Spirit of Adventure offer ‘A Thousand Miles Up The Nile’.
A 19 day tour by road, rail and boat.
Prices start from £1845 per person. Price includes flights, services of a Tour Manager and Egyptologist, meals and accommodation.
Departures on February 8, March 8 & 22, September 20, October 11 & 25, November 8 & 22.
Details 0800 318 225 or www.spiritofadventure.co.uk/classicjourneys.
Flight Time: 5.5 hours from UK
Time difference: GMT + 2 hours
Language: Arabic
Main Religion: Islam
Currency: Egyptian pound (US Dollar widely accepted)
Did you know:
The Truth About the Curse of the Mummy
Did you know that the Curse of the Mummy was a simple matter of chemistry. When the tombs were sealed a fungi grew on the walls and when opened again, the fungi made contact with oxygen and became poisonous, causing respiratory problems for visitors who breathed it in.