In some quarters, capitalism is a dirty word. It conjures up images of greed, dark dealings and probably a whole stream of other unflattering adjectives. Doesn�t it?
27 June 2005
No, not in Eindhoven it doesn't. Eindhoven is Holland's fifth city borne out of the foundations of industry and where capitalism has a positively glowing aura entwined in civic pride, social history, education and even housing thanks to two industrious yet philanthropic bright sparks. For over 100 years brothers Messrs Anton and Gerard Phillips' kings of the humble light bulb - were constantly in the city's spotlight. They brought their now multinational company 'Phillips' into Eindhoven in 1891 with their incandescent lamp production and stayed for over a century before moving their HQ to Amsterdam leaving behind a legacy of switched-on hi-tech excellence.
Phillips may have moved but the city folk have not forgotten their city�s founders. The central station located in Eindhoven�s city centre is structured as an old fashioned radio, and in front stands a rather dignified statue of Anton Phillips aka Mister Anton.
Within walking distance at Emmasingel is the Philips Light Bulb factory (Gloeilampenfabriekje) that Gerard Phillips used to produce carbon filament incandescent light bulbs. Now it is a museum with an illuminating (both literally and intellectually) Artificial Light in Art centre where light is used in paintings and sculptures to create superb art pieces of great beauty, intrigue and at times, even illusion.
Opposite is one of the city�s most revered land marks, the elegant yet imposing former Phillips radio tube factory known as �the White Lady�. It was the first ever concrete building in the Netherlands and is now home to the Eindhoven library, the famous Design Academy and the Philips Design and MU Art Foundation.
At the end of Emmasingel is yet another prominent Phillips building, the Philips Light tower (Lichttoren) once used to test light bulbs. In front is a statue of a young girl, no more than 12 years of age. She is a tribute to the many young girls and women who were employed to produce the early bulbs more easily achieved with small, youthful fingers.
Taking its cue from this dynamic duo, Eindhoven is now regarded as a centre for design and technology. Did you know that the CD was invented here? Every October Eindhoven hosts the Netherlands�s biggest week-long design festival � De Week van het Ontwerp (The week of Design) and both the professionals and the curious can visit and interact with exhibits.
This sort of cutting edge mentally also finds expression in the Van Abbemuseum art museum. The building overlooks the Dommel river and itself looks like an abstract. Its collections range from bizarre pieces designed by artists for the precious few who are on their eccentric wavelength to outstanding Picassos worth over ?35 million. In between there are also some amusing collections. Go visit the outstanding Paul McCarthy�s collections �Brain Box Dream Box� and see his provocative defacing of advertising and worse, see Father Christmas like you have never seen him before. You will either be transcended or offended!
Eindhoven�s most infamous street is the Stratumseind, which once connected Eindhoven city to Stratum that until 1920 was an independent village. It is the longest �pub� street in the Netherlands where every few steps leads to temptation. Bars galore straddle the pedestrianised stretch offering kwak loads (a kwak is a type of glass with a bulbous bottom) of Amstel or Heineken beer and where Dutch gin, Genever, is often drunk as a beer chaser; the combination is known as a kopstoot ('head butt') for obvious reasons. Quite incongruously at the other end of Stratumseind is the looming gothic Catharinakerk church, which offers a spiritual experience of a different sort, ideal for Sunday penance.
Walking around the city is a breeze. Cars are used but not in any great proportion and unwary visitors may find themselves being �tringed� by cyclists to get them off the red tarred cycling segment of the road. In fact cycling is a great way to get around, and as Eindhoven is so compact everything of interest is nearby including the surrounding green
countryside.
A south-westerly cycle ride leads to De Kempen and eastwards leads to De Peel and the Belgian border. Novices to the area need not worry as the extensive and ingenious biking routes that are also followed by ramblers, horse riders and skaters, support them well. The routes take in bog marshes, shallow lakes, moors and sand dunes and lead to picturesque villages.
One village in particular which should be visited is Neunen primarily because this is where Vincent Van Gogh lived for two years in 1883-1885 and where he painted his most important oeuvre, �the Potato Eaters� (de Aardappeleters). Naturally there is a Van Gogh centre and a Van Gogh route takes in the church where his father was a Pasteur, his family home and the home next door where the woman with whom he shared a heart breaking love affair lived.
Eindhoven has easy access to a nearby zoo, the Dierenrijk Europa. Opened recently in 4th May 2004, it is dedicated to the indigenous animals of Europe, so no elephants or zebras. It�s a nice idea and brings to the fore animals such as bears, otters, seals and lynxes amongst others. One of the highlights is feeding time at the seals� enclosures. This is the time when these water-waders are tempted onto terra firma for their fish supper showing the full substance of their voluptuous forms.
Back in the city the caf? culture thrives in and around the Market Square. Savour a hot chocolate or a glass of beer to wash down some oysters or herring. Or how about broodjes (sandwich) or a sweet or savoury pannenkoeken (pancake)?
Watch out though for Arnol, Eindhoven�s most eccentric but thoroughly likeable citizen. He was crippled in a car crash and now manoeuvres the city every single day in his white motorised push chair with a huge red rose in tow, preaching the gospel. His repertoire is to endow those that will listen, and many do, with strength and vision through a �channelled� incantation best described as double Dutch. He explains that the intelligible words �will speak to your soul�. Can you take his words as gospel? who knows? But on reflection, what better place could there be to see the light.
FACT BOX
Getting there:
www.Ryanair.com flies from Stansted Airport to Eindhoven Airport
Or fly to Amsterdam (various networks) and get the train into Eindhoven central station. You need to make one easy change and the journey is around 45 minutes.
Where to stay
Dorint Cocagne Hotel *****
Vestdijk 47
5611 CA Eindhoven
phone: +31 (0) 40 - 2326111
fax: +31 (0) 40 - 2440148
Tariff : 180-240 euros
Gastronomy:
Herring, Oysters, Cheese such as Edam, Gouda and Bitterballen � deep fried meat balls where the meat inside has a pureed texture.
To drink
Beer � Amstel, Grolsch, Heineken or the array of Belgian beers
Animal Kingdom
Dierenrijk Europa
Heiderschoor 24
5731 RG Mierlo
Tel: +31 (0) 492-668240
E-mail: info@dierenrijkeuropa.nl
Van Abbemuseum
Bilderdijklaan 10 Eindhoven
Tel. +31 (0)40 238 10 00
info@vanabbemuseum.nl
www.vanabbemuseum.nl
Entry fee Adults Eur8.50 Under 12 years Free
Thursday evening admission free between 5-9pm
Open Tues-Sun 11am-5pm
Closed Monday except public holidays
Artificial Light in Art Museum
Emmasingel 31, Eindhoven
www.kunstlichtkunst.nl
tel:+31 (0) 402755183
Open Tues-Sat 12.00-16.00, Sun 12.00-17.00
Admission adults Eur3.50
Van Gogh Document Centre
Papenvoort 15 Nuenen
tel +31 (0) 40 2839615,
Entry: adults Eur2, kids Eur 1
Opened daily from 10.00-12.00 & 14.00-16.00.
Tourist Information
Netherlands Board of Tourism & Conventions
PO Box 30783
London WC2B 6DH
Tel: 0207 539 7950
info@nbt.org.uk
www.holland.com
VVV Eindhoven
Stationsplein 175611 AC Eindhoven
tel: +31 402979100
www.vvveindhoven.nl
info@eindhoven.nl