Now that Speedferries has brought the Dover-Boulogne route back to life, this pretty coastal town is opening its welcoming arms to visiting Brits.
27 June 2005
You may remember Boulogne of old. The pretty French coastal town where daytrippers wiled away their time buying French cheese and wine, visiting the markets, strolling along the ramparts of the Vieux Ville (old town) and generally enjoying the cafe culture of this fabulous port.
But then, Hoverspeed stopped their Dover-Boulogne route and it all went horribly wrong. Like any pretty female, Boulogne went through a bad hair day because she could no longer afford the hairdresser. Shops closed, trade diminished, the port fell into disrepair and Boulogne went into a recession and all because the Brits no longer went to visit.
So it was a day of great celebration when a few years later on May 19th 2004 Speedferries' first catamaran sailed across the Channel heralding the new Dover-Boulogne service. French traders stood at the port, squealing for joy, clapping and generally welcoming the catamaran and all the Brits that sailed in her.
In preparation for this day, the harbour had been renovated, the Chateau Mus?e (castle museum) in the old town went through major refurbishment, a new pedestrianised area has been created, shop fronts and restaurants had a makeover - in effect Boulogne coiffed her hair, and scrubbed up really nicely.
Strategically, Boulogne has always been important. It is the closest point to England, dates back to ancient times (55BC) and was coveted by Julius Ceasar who thought (in vain) that he could invade Britannia. In medieval times the Counts of Boulogne built a castle and developed a town within the Roman fortifications. Today the ramparts of the old town offer a truly romantic and at least a quiet amble around the old town and the castle at the top of rue de Lille is used as a museum for various exhibitions.
The lower part of the town developed as a fishing village and even today remains one of France's premier fishing ports. A daily, hectic fish market sells the catch of the day by the newly renovated quayside and year-round fish festivals take place, including the procession of the Virgin Mary, Boulogne's protector, faithfully continuing the mediaeval pilgrimages.
Opposite the port, have a look at Napolean's statue. It stands tall on a 53 metre high column and commemorates the base camp of France's biggest ever army of 80,000 men all waiting to storm England during 1802-05. When it was built the statue faced England as if to trumpet an impending attack, but after WWII the French government turned it round to face away from England as a gesture of good will towards her British allies.
Looking upward towards the old town, the Notre Dame Cathedral's shining dome shines brightly especially in the mid day sun and dominates the Boulognese skyline. It was built in 1866 on the ruins of the mediaeval cathedral and still contains some sacred art treasure including the reliquary of the Holy Blood - a masterpiece of the 14th century.
While in Boulogne, a gastronomic lunch or dinner must surely be on the touristic menu, and there are a variety of great restaurants to choose from. Naturally, being a fishing port, much of the delicacies will be fish or seafood. But the epicurean trails should not end there! Nip into a fromagerie and into a wine 'cave' and stock up on the two items that are quintessentially French, and on your return be sure to raise your glasses and salute the happy occasion that Boulogne is back.
Where to buy cheese:
Phillipe Olivier
43 rue Thiers
T: 00 33 321 31 94 74
The owner of the same name lives, breathes and dreams about cheese and his passion has propelled him to achieve world-wide acclaim. Try Maroiles, a pungent cheese from the North of France or try.
Where to buy wine
Le Chais
49 rue des Deux Ponts
T: 00 33 321 31 65 42
Where to eat
La Poivriere
15 rue de Lille
Situated the Old Town Haute Ville.
Menus from ?10 to ?25
T: 00 33 (0)3 21 80 18 18
Aux Pecheur D'Etaples
31 Grande Rue
Menus from ?10-?35
T: 00 33 (0)321 30 29 29
Fantastic gastronomic fish restaurant, situated behind a high-class fishmonger.
Where to sleep
La Matelote
70/80 boulevard Ste-Beuve
Boulogne
T: 00 33 (0)321 30 17 97
www.lamatelote.com
Tariff: From ?65
This has a convenient location in the town centre right opposite the Nausica Aquarium. The colour scheme is uniformly gold and red which complements the mahogany furniture quite well. The hotel's Michelin starred restaurant is taste bud heaven.
Enclos de l'Evech?
Rue de Pressy
Boulogne
www.enclosedeleveche.com
T: 00 33 (0)391 90 05 90
Tariff: From ?48.00
Located high up in Boulogne's walled old town this fine family owned mansion hotel overlooks the cathedral dome. There are seven bedrooms each with its own d?cor (one has a very Egyptian look).
Must Visit
NAUSICAA
Centre National de la Mer
Boulevard Sainte Beuve
T: 00 33 (0)321 30 98 98 (Telephone enquiries)
T: 00 33 (0)321 30 99 89 (Bookings)
Nausicaa is Boulogne's magnificent sealife centre.
Le Chateau-Musee
Rue de Beernet
T: 00 33 (0)321 10 02 20
Notre Dame Cathedral
Access via rue de Lille
T: 00 33 (0)321 99 75 98
OFFICE DE TOURISME ***
Forum Jean No?l - Quai de la Poste
BP 187
62200 BOULOGNE-SUR-MER
Telephone: 00 33 (0)321 31 68 38
boulogne@tourisme.norsys.fr
Getting there
www.speedferries.com