Two Countries, two contrasting Scandinavian cities, One bridge, One fabulous short break! Gillian Thornton discovers the ultimate Scandinavian short break
4 July 2005
Friday evening in Copenhagen and Hans Christian Andersen’s Boulevard is positively buzzing. There aren’t many capital cities which can boast an amusement park right next to the main railway station, nor many which offer free rock concerts every weekend. Tonight it’s the turn of the band TV2, clearly a popular draw for the Danes, and it’s hard not to get caught up in the atmosphere as young and old jostle good-naturedly for a vantage point.
And Tivoli really is a family attraction. Open from mid April to mid September, it was founded in 1843 by Georg Carstensen, who was inspired by London’s Vauxhall Gardens. A century later, the Tivoli Gardens themselves inspired Walt Disney to create fun for all ages at Disneyland. But unlike Disneyland, Tivoli charges a modest 6.50 euros entrance fee. Then you just pay for the rides you do. Everything from gentle roundabouts to this year’s new attraction, the Demon triple-loop coaster. As well as the free open air concerts, there’s a broad programme of music and dance in the Concert Hall. Or you could just relax in one of Tivoli’s 38 restaurants.
We enjoyed excellent food on board the Fregatten – a replica pirate ship on a lake fringed with coloured lights. It was all a huge contrast to the previous night in Malmo.
Two nights, two cities, two countries … thanks to the Oresund Bridge which for the last four years has linked the Danish capital with Malmo in southern Sweden. The Danes flock over the bridge to enjoy cheaper shopping and the relaxed atmosphere of Sweden’s third-largest city, whilst the Swedes come the other way when they fancy cranking up the pace a notch.
As for the rest of us, we can enjoy a two very different cities just a 30-minute train ride apart. We flew to Copenhagen with Scandinavian Airlines and picked up the train right in the terminal. Twelve minutes one way and you’re in the Danish capital; twenty minutes the other way and you’ve crossed the water to Malmo.
Trains run every 20 minutes until the early hours and then hourly through the night. Malmo proved surprisingly relaxing for a major city with a multinational population. Large, leafy parks; canal-side walks; and pedestrian shopping streets selling good value, quality merchandise. The picturesque cafes of Lilla Torg buzz in fine weather and the whole town exudes a refreshingly laidback feeling. Malmo’s not big on historic buildings or cultural attractions.
The Swedes seem to knock most things down as soon as they clock up three figures, though the seven attractions which together make up Malmo Museums are grouped round a 16th century castle. Malmo is much more of a ‘now’ city – a pleasant place to live which clearly prefers to look forward rather than back.
For many local residents, the future lies in the Western Harbour development on the waterfront, a short ride from the city centre. The architecture of this chic residential area is very simple, very striking, very Danish, and includes the unmistakable outline of the 54-storey Turning Torso, Europe’s tallest residential tower block.
Copenhagen, by contrast, is much more in-your-face. A striking blend of heritage and happening with historic monuments, period facades and some of the boldest new buildings you are likely to see anywhere. Like it or loathe it, you can’t help but marvel at the acute angles of the new Opera House on the waterfront, directly opposite the Amalienborg Palace where the Royal Family live. It opened with Verdi’s Aida in January 2005 and was a gift to the nation from Denmark’s biggest industrial group, the oil and shipping company A.P. Moller-Maersk.
Visitors flock to the nearby Nyhaven or New Harbour where you can eat or drink at one of the bustling cafes below brightly painted facades before stepping aboard a cruise boat for a harbour tour. Touristy yes, but definitely the best way to get an overview of the city’s layout and history, not to mention a duck’s eye view of the famous Little Mermaid. Then just get out and explore on foot. The city centre is quite compact. Main shopping street is the pedestrianised Stroget which is best tackled early in the day if you don’t want to do the Shopping Shuffle. Start at the bottom near the City Hall and you’ll wonder what all the fuss is about, but the quality of the stores gets better, the higher up you go.
Don’t miss the Royal Scandinavian trio of Georg Jensen jewellery and silverware; Holme Gaard glass and Royal Copenhagen porcelain, all interlinked. Nor the inspirational design shops which stock everything from stationery to furnishings, all on sleek Danish lines. But watch out too for individual boutiques tucked up the side streets.
For real life Royalty, wander through the square outside the Amalienborg Palace which sits between some pleasant waterfront gardens and the imposing Marble Church. The Danes are hugely fond of Queen Margrethe who is renowned for her skills as a seamstress and her participation local events. A short stroll from the Amalienborg Palace stands the red brick Rosenborg Palace, home to the Crown Jewels, whilst across the square is the imposing National Gallery. The art collection is one of more than 60 museums and attractions in Greater Copenhagen which offer either free or discounted entrance to holders of a Copenhagen Card - around 19 euros for a 24-hour card and 39 euros for 72-hours. Cardholders also get free public transport, so you can take the train beyond the city centre to visit Hamlet’s castle at Elsinore; Roskilde Cathedral where the Danish monarchs are buried; or the Museum of National History at picturesque Frederiksborg Castle. Or you could simply head over the bridge to chill out in Malmo ….