Guide to the Ancient Town of Fenghuang, Yunnan, China

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I first went to China over 40 years ago when it was just opening to Westerners. It didn’t disappoint and subsequent visits have seen an enormous transformation. Rice fields have been replaced by multi-lane highways and villages have become cities of mushrooming high-rises. Yet I’ve heard that the town of Fenghuang, sitting on the Tuojiang River in Hunan, has remained relatively unchanged

Hunnan

Hunan is a land-locked province, in the south central part of the country, surrounded by mountains, with the fertile Yangtze River to the north. Think agricultural China, a landscape of paddy fields and tea terraces. It’s also the homeland of Chairman Mao who was born in a small country village and studied in the capital. Last time I was here it was to see the remarkable Avatar landscape of Yuanjiajie one of China’s natural wonders. This time I’m looking for something man-made.

My flight arrives in Hunan’s capital, Changsha, but I’m bound for the west of the province. No matter, it’s a fast two hour bullet train ride at speeds of over 200km/h, before I arrive in Fenghuang. The name means “Phoenix”, after the mythical bird said to have appeared here, and the town has long been associated with the Tujia and Miao minorities who live in the surrounding mountains.

Fenghuang

Timber houses perch above the Tuojiang River, their dark wooden balconies reflected in the water, while narrow lanes twist between old walls, gateways and tiny shops. Mist hangs over the surrounding hills and, as evening falls, thousands of lights illuminate the waterfront. It’s the sort of place that seems to have been designed for a Chinese landscape painting.

The old settlement developed beside the Tuojiang as an important trading centre, linking communities in the remote interior with the wider world. Merchants, officials and travellers passed through its gates, and the wealth they brought helped create the elaborate wooden houses and ancestral halls that survive today.

Tuojiang River

My first encounter with Fenghuang is from the river. Small boats glide beneath stone bridges, passing houses whose timber stilts rise directly from the water. The boatmen work the oars with a practised rhythm, while tourists lean over the side for photographs. Above, balconies project over the river and washing hangs from wooden rails. The Tuojiang is the town’s natural highway and its visual centre, impossible to separate Fenghuang from the water.

Architecture

Fenghuang’s architecture is particularly distinctive. The Diaojiaolou, or stilt houses, are closely associated with the region and give the waterfront much of its character. Their construction reflects the need to make the most of limited space while adapting to a riverside environment.  Some have been restored and converted into guesthouses, allowing visitors to sleep above the river and wake to the sound of water flowing beneath the floorboards.

It’s best to come early in the morning, before the tour groups arrive. Watch the river mist lift from the Tuojiang and listen to the first sounds of the town waking. Walk across the bridges, explore the lanes and follow the river until the houses give way to trees and hills.

Old Town

Away from the waterfront, the town’s quieter lanes reveal another side of Fenghuang Flagstone lanes disappear beneath overhanging roofs before emerging into little squares. Doorways lead into courtyards, and red lanterns hang above restaurants selling local Hunan specialities.

I pass workshops selling silver jewellery, embroidered textiles and traditional handicrafts associated with the Miao people. Between them are glimpses of everyday life: elderly residents sitting outside their homes, children returning from school and shopkeepers chatting in the shade

Rainbow Bridge

One of the pleasures of wandering is crossing Fenghuang’s collection of bridges. The Hongqiao, or Rainbow Bridge, is the most famous. Built in the early Qing period, it combines a stone bridge with a covered structure and has become one of the town’s landmarks. From its upper level there are fine views along the Tuojiang, with the old houses crowding both banks and wooded hills rising behind them.

Miao

The Miao are renowned for their elaborate costumes and intricate silverwork, and the region around Fenghuang remains an important centre of Miao culture. Festivals here can be particularly spectacular, with traditional dress, music and dancing providing a vivid reminder that this is a living culture. Of course Chinese tourists flock here to get their selfies, dressed in Miao finery, standing by the river.

Hot Food

Hunan cuisine is famous for its bold flavours and considerable use of chilli, and local dishes make good use of river fish, tofu, pork and preserved vegetables. Street stalls offer snacks to eat while wandering, while restaurants overlooking the Tuojiang provide a more leisurely experience. Try the local smoked meats, grilled tofu and spicy dishes, accompanied by rice and, if the heat becomes excessive, plenty of tea.

After Dark

Yet it is after dark that Fenghuang becomes most magical. The old buildings are illuminated in warm colours, their reflections trembling on the Tuojiang. Music spills from bars and restaurants, boats carry visitors beneath the bridges and the waterfront becomes a theatre of light. Move a few streets away and the atmosphere changes completely. The ancient lanes become almost silent, lanterns glow above doorways and the old town suddenly feels much as it must have done before the arrival of mass tourism.

Fenghuang may no longer be a secret, but it retains the qualities that made it famous: an extraordinary riverside setting, beautiful traditional architecture and a strong sense of local identity. It is a place where China’s past has not disappeared behind museum gates but continues to shape everyday life. The phoenix, according to legend, rises again from the ashes.

Factfile

GO: Hainan Airlines flies to Changsha from London Heathrow. It’s a long flight so upgrade to their excellent business class for extra comfort.

INFO: China operates a visa-free policy for UK visitors.

For a list of Hunan tour operators see the Chinese National Tourist Office website: https://www.cnto.org.uk/travel-trade.

STAY: The Wyndham Grand Plaza Royale Hot Springs makes a good base above Fenghuang.