I have never understood the appeal of camping. Damp tents, endless compromises and holidays at the mercy of the weather have always left me reaching for a hotel instead. But a three-night stay at Fountain Violet Farm in South Devon proved that perhaps I didn’t dislike camping after all – I hadn’t found the right place.
To me, holidays are about switching off, not wrestling with tent poles or wondering whether rain will ruin plans. My husband is equally unconvinced. Neither of us owns a tent, so why book three nights under canvas? Because it was in Devon.
My mum was born in Torquay and Devon has always felt familiar. The dramatic coastline, impossibly green hills tumbling into the sea, hidden coves with cold, clear water and fresh crab sandwiches all feel very wholesome and reminiscent of childhood visits. If anywhere was going to persuade me to sleep in a tent, it would be here.
Our destination was Fountain Violet Farm, part of Feather Down Farms, a collection of working farm stays across the UK and mainland Europe. Rather than glamping with hot tubs and Wi-Fi, Feather Down’s philosophy is simple: spacious canvas hideaways, proper beds, wood-burning stoves, well-equipped kitchens, no electricity and a chance to slow down. Every farm follows the same formula while the surrounding landscape changes completely.
Perched high above Kingswear on a working beef farm, Fountain Violet enjoys one of the finest settings in South Devon. The South West Coast Path runs nearby, Kingswear is less than ten minutes away and Paignton is within twenty minutes, yet the farm feels wonderfully remote. Green fields roll towards the sea and there are just six tents, each carefully positioned for privacy.
The tent eased my anxiety. Spacious, comfortable and already assembled, it is a cross between a rustic cottage and a safari tent. Our only advice? Bring everything you need for the first evening because after a long four-hour slog from London, you won’t want to leave again and there really is very little on-site or immediately nearby.
Living without electricity takes a little adjustment. The wine is never quite as cold as you’d like without a fridge, but sitting on the deck with a book while watching the late afternoon light over the sea soon makes you forget that.
While London baked in 33°C, we enjoyed a breezy 28°C and spent every evening outside watching the last sailing boats return up the estuary to Dartmouth. Our London dog, Nella, happily befriended the owner’s much more worldly farm dog, who wandered everywhere without a lead.
Cooking on the wood-burning stove proved surprisingly easy. Making tea, however, became the running joke of the weekend. Waiting forty-five minutes for a kettle to boil was testing. The owner kindly offered us a shortcut if we were willing to cheat. My husband refused. So I reminded him of that decision every time we stared at the kettle asking, ‘Is it boiling yet?’
One of the real joys of staying here is how easily you can combine complete tranquillity with some of South Devon’s finest days out. We walked directly from the farm to the National Trust’s Coleton Fishacre.
Coleton Fishacre, Devon
It was a three-hour hike to reach the Arts and Crafts house created by Rupert and Dorothy D’Oyly Carte, a fascinating property built to embrace the outdoors and to host glamorous parties that typified the jazz age.
The walk itself is glorious, weaving through rolling countryside and taking some steep coastal climbs before revealing one of England’s finest gardens, where subtropical planting frames spectacular sea views and the elegant Art Deco house.
The Dart Estuary
We also explored Dartmouth, browsing its independent shops and watching boats criss-cross the River Dart. Crossing from nearby Kingswear on the charming five-minute passenger ferry became part of the adventure.
Signs warned that queues in high summer could stretch to ninety minutes, rather like waiting for a ride at a theme park, yet during our late-June stay we never queued once.
One particularly hot afternoon we descended the steep steps to Sugary Cove, a tiny dog-friendly pebble beach tucked beneath Dartmouth Castle. The reward was a swim in remarkably clear water and a stroll back to Dartmouth cooled and calmer.
Eating out locally
But for me food is as much a reason to visit South Devon as the scenery. With fishing boats landing their daily catch, seafood dominates menus in the best possible way. We headed to Rockfish in Dartmouth, the popular waterside restaurant from chef Mitch Tonks, where the menu celebrates whatever has come ashore that day and the waiting staff scribble their recommendations on huge paper placemats. Sitting in the sunshine overlooking the River Dart with fresh fish and unlimited chips we agreed it’s hard to beat Devon.
The following day, we swapped restaurant tables for an altogether more traditional treat, eating fish and chips straight from the paper while overlooking the harbour at Paignton. It summed up the easy-going charm of Devon perfectly.
Everywhere we went, from cafés and pubs to ferries and beaches, dogs weren’t simply tolerated – they were welcomed. Nella attracted huge attention, greeted with water bowls, treats and enthusiastic fuss wherever we stopped. For anyone travelling with a four-legged companion, South Devon doesn’t just feel dog-friendly; dogs are part of the holiday.
Verdict
I still don’t think I’ll be buying a tent any time soon. But Feather Down isn’t really about camping. It’s about reconnecting with landscape, simplicity and time. My lasting memory isn’t the canvas or the kettle. It’s sitting on the deck with a not-quite-cold-enough glass of wine, watching the final yachts drift towards Dartmouth as the evening settled across the hills. If that’s camping, perhaps I’ve been wrong all along.
Fact File
How much: From £118 per night (2-night minimum) Or From £412 for 3-night weekend
More info: Featherdown