I first discovered The Collective at Woolsery when planning a road trip along the Southwest 660, the long-distance coastal route that wraps around some of the most dramatic locations in the West Country. The Collective has revitalised its North Devon village and its surroundings by operating a holistic ecosystem that includes a 150-acre farm, accommodations, a local shop and post office, and a gourmet fish and chip shop.
But the crown of their efforts (and the subject of this review) is The Farmers Arms, a Grade II-listed former coaching inn, parts of which date back to the 17th century. The restaurant’s menu is the perfect showcase for the farm’s seasonal produce and for locally foraged ingredients.
We sat down in a barn-like room where the huge wooden beams stretched over us like a canopy of branches in a forest. A family group was on the table next to us, and three friends were relaxing in the corner: it’s a warm and welcoming space for the community as much as for visitors like us.
There are local beers and ciders on draft, as well as some tempting-looking cocktails, but we started with a glass of English sparkling wine. I browsed the seasonal Birch Farm Tasting Menu, which comes in two versions, vegetarian and non-vegetarian, and is competitively priced at £75 per person, and an additional £35 if you’d like wine pairings.
The Farmers Arms restaurant – the menu focuses on seasonal often foraged ingredients.
What struck me, because it is so unusual, is that the vegetarian menu looked just as enticing, if not more so, than the one for meat eaters. Impressed, I convinced my dining companion that we should order one of each, in order to try as many different dishes as possible.
The naturally fermented bread came to the table in thick, irresistible slices and was slightly warm. The cultured butter spread like clotted cream. There were a few fine slivers of salami on the side, no doubt made from Birch Farm’s rare breed and heritage livestock.
For the first three courses, the two menus diverged. I feasted on Birch Farm beetroot served with Devon blue, pickled walnut, and sour plum; Birch Farm egg with penny bun mushrooms, summer truffle, and sourdough brioche; and then a mouthwatering courgette dish with caponata, Parmesan, and bay.
The meat-based menu was equally imaginative, and again, locally caught and grown ingredients were the highlight. Partridge came from nearby Clovelly, a private estate once owned by William the Conqueror; the halibut and scallops were no doubt landed at the harbour that morning, and the succulent, soft wild fallow deer was complemented by winter squash, sloes, and elderberries, the jewels of the autumn hedgerows.
Halibut and scallops – seafood is caught by local fishermen and always fresh
Come the time for dessert, both tasting menus are the same. First of all was sea buckthorn, the bright orange berries I’d seen on a cliff top walk the day before served with rose geranium, an inspired rocket sorbet, and tiny pink peppercorns. The tartness of the sea buckthorn was an effective palate cleanser but didn’t overpower the subtler flavours.
The chef’s finale was a caramel tart, dreamily smooth and accompanied by finely diced crab apple, vanilla, and cider brandy. Like every dish before it, the tastes and textures were unexpected but harmoniously balanced. With every bite, I was assured that this was a master craftsman at work.
Verdict: The Farmers Arms is far more than a gastropub. It is a masterclass in hyper-seasonal farm-to-table dining.
The Farmers Arms, Woolsery, Bideford, Devon
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