Viking Trails and Celtic Origins cruise with Holland America

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A cruise itinerary promising Viking Trails and Celtic connections ticked a lot of boxes for me. Not just the dramatic scenery and remote communities of the North Atlantic, but the chance to explore my roots. Family legend has it that our ancestors arrived in Yorkshire from Scandinavia in Viking longboats and my maiden name is just one consonant short of legendary Norwegian footballer Erling Haaland,

Celtic origins

I start my adventure on board Holland America Line’s flagship, Rotterdam, in Reykjavik. Ahead of us, two stops in the south of Iceland, before the Faroe Islands, South Queensferry for Edinburgh and finally, HAL’s home port of Rotterdam.

Iceland and the Faroes were first populated in the 9th century by settlers from Norway, several of them with Celtic slaves and wives from Ireland and Scotland they took along the way. Their stories were recorded in Icelandic Sagas and today the languages of both countries owe much to the Old Norse of their ancestors. Happily for visitors, they mostly speak excellent English too.

Icelandic scenery

This is my third visit to Reykjavik, but several fellow passengers have tacked on a couple of days to explore the Icelandic capital or take excursions into the geothermal landscape. Summer activities also include whale watching, puffin cruises, and trekking on sturdy Icelandic horses that boast a unique fifth gear.

But the island’s southern shore is a discovery for me. We stop first at Heimaey, the only inhabited island in the Westman Islands, a volcanic archipelago off Iceland’s south coast. Today, this busy fishing community is a popular tourist destination, famous as the ‘Pompeii of the North’ since a sudden eruption in January 1973, which buried many homes under 10 metres of lava. Fortunately, everyone escaped.

We enjoy a walk from the harbour through 50-year-old lava fields, splashed in summer with the purple hues of wild lupins. You can also walk up to the crater of the new volcano, Eldfell; take a boat tour or the Hop-on bus to the Puffin cliffs; or visit the Beluga Whale Sanctuary.

Our last Icelandic stop is Djupivogur, a fishing village of barely 500 people in the south-eastern corner. Here I enjoy a guided nature walk with panoramic views of sea, lakes and mountains, before strolling the harbour road to see 34 huge sculptures of native birds’ eggs. Well, why not?

Faroe Islands

Leaving Iceland, Rotterdam cruises to the Faroe Islands, a self-governing archipelago within the Kingdom of Denmark. We dock at Runavik on the island of Esturoy, where we receive a warm welcome from a band of smiling ‘Ask me’ locals in high viz jackets.

After an independent morning following the nature trail direct from the harbour, our guided excursion takes us through spectacular mountain scenery, passing high above Funningur, the first Viking settlement. At the pretty village of Gjogv, we wander through its colourful houses to look down on a tiny fishing harbour set in a deep gorge. Look across the water, the guides tells us, and that distant cliff is where 007 James Bond met his untimely end in ‘No Time to Die’!

Edinburgh

After a relaxing day at sea, we dock in the Firth of Forth within sight of Edinburgh’s famous landmarks and travel by tender under the UNESCO-listed Forth Bridge into South Queensferry. Here two smiling ladies with drums and bagpipes offer a traditional Scottish welcome.

We know the Scottish capital well, so opt instead to meet local friends and relax with a walk and lunch beside the water, but first-timers can choose from several classic excursions including the Castle and Royal Mile, or catch the bus from the jetty to experience the Celtic atmosphere of the Scottish capital.

Ship life

Largest ship in the Holland America Line fleet, Rotterdam can carry up to 2,680 guests in a wide range of cabin choices. We have a Verandah stateroom on Deck 4 which includes a sitting area, queen-sized bed, and fiercely efficient shower plus Elemis toiletries and dressing gowns

Fine dining in The Dining Room is included in the trip price, but for an extra treat, pay extra to try some of the speciality restaurants. We particularly enjoyed the steak and seafood of Pinnacle Grill, the Mediterranean dishes in Sel de Mer, and the Pan-Asian flavours of Tamarind. For casual dining, choose from international favourites in the Lido Market, Pizza in the New York Deli, or beers, snacks and pastries in the Grand Dutch Café.

Want to know how menus are created, how produce is sourced and prepared, and what happens to food waste? Ask about backstage tours of the ship. British executive chef Darren Yardley-Salisbury heads up a team of 200 personnel, including 141 cooks, and reveals that while guests are sleeping, a bakery and pastry team work through the night, as does a team of fruit preparation staff.

Nobody goes to the North Atlantic for the weather, except to escape a Summer heatwave, but the main pool is available in all seasons thanks to a retractable roof. A smaller pool at the rear of the ship for adults only. Expect the usual daily programme of creative activities, live music and sports contests, plus a twice-nightly gala show on the World Stage, dancing in the Rolling Stone Lounge, and live Rhythm & Blues.

HOW MUCH

Itineraries vary year-on-year but Holland America Line will be running similar trips in 2027. Prices start from £1,049 for an inside cabin on May 29. Add a ‘Have It All’

Package for $100 per person per day to include $100 shore excursion credit, Signature Beverage Package; one night of speciality dining; and a Wi-Fi Surf Package. www.hollandmerica.com