Your guide to the Greek island of Santorini

6

It’s the same sun wherever you find yourself. The same orange hues, the same warm rays. Yet in Santorini, the sunlight is somehow different. Perhaps it’s the way the light flirts around the craggy, tawny brown landscape, bounces off the startling white architecture and dapples the blue of the Aegean Sea. For me at least, it has a way of recovering emotions I thought had long gone, and I got to see it all with the help of exceptional tour guides of VIP Santorini.

Santorini is a crescent-shaped caldera, a volcanic crater, that was once land, but is now filled with water, the result of catastrophic eruptions around 3,600 years ago. Some of it is submerged in the Aegean Sea, but if you look out over the water, you can see the remains that are now Therasia, Aspronisi, and the Kameni islands. 

Fira – the capital

Fira and its signature white buildings, bell towers, and blue-domed, mostly privately owned churches, literally cascade down towards the edges of the caldera and the harbour. Now and then, clouds of pink blooms of bougainvillaea appear along ribbons of narrow, cobbled, twisty lanes.

It gets busy when the cruise ships deposit their passengers. They go to the top by cable car, climb the 587 steps or take a donkey ride. I did consider taking the cable car down to the Old Port but instead chose to explore Fira.

It’s joyful to meander around the curvy streets and to pop into the impressive Cathedral Church of Candlemass of the Lord. Jewellery, clothes and souvenir shops beckon from crooks and crannies, while every inch of space with a view has been commandeered by bars and restaurants.

When the sun gets too much, two museums offer relief: the Megaro Gyzi museum, located in an attractive mansion, preserves the cultural and spiritual heritage of Santorini. I got to see maps, landscapes, and traditional Cycladic costumes from the 15th to the 19th century. The other is the Archaeological museum of Thera, rebuilt in 1960 to replace one that had collapsed in the 1956 Amorgos earthquake. It is home to artefacts ranging from the Archaic to the Roman periods.

Just a little beyond towards the town of Oia is the village of Firostefani (its name means Crown of Fira), which has plenty of churches, and one in particular, the Greek Catholic Church of the Dormition, is famous for its Three Bells of Fira tower, depicting the Trinity Father, Son and Holy Spirit – and a gorgeous backdrop.

The town of Oia

Oia is another fine coastal town on the north end of the island. It is Fira’s doppleganger, with great views and just as busy, especially around the market, when the cruise ships dock. It overlooks Ammoudi Bay, which can be reached by a steep flight of 278 steps. This is where catamaran tours set off and also where the best seafood restaurants are located.

The colours reflect the light so well that you cannot take a bad picture, and because of that, day trippers gather in prime positions to capture it for themselves.

The crowds can be off-putting, so I hatched a plan to get there early before they do and snap away at my leisure. I came across an Evzone – a ceremonial Greek soldier who wears a skirt and pom poms on his shoes. He was happy to pose for tourists. Of course, I posed with him before parking myself on one of the many balcony cafes to savour those views.

Imerovigli Village

If you doom scroll on social media as I do, you may have seen social media posts that show women wearing dresses whose tails seem to fly. Savvy locals have made an industry of this, especially in the village of Imerovigli, around two miles from Fira. I was stopped in my tracks twice, waiting for the flying dress shoot to be over.

Some say Imerovigli is the most romantic village in Santorini. It is just as beautiful, yet quieter, more peaceful, and because it hangs off a caldera cliff, it offers unobstructed views. 

For others, it offers an opportunity to hike. Skaros Rock, the medieval capital and a thriving fortress built to protect against pirates. It was destroyed by an earthquake, is one of Imerovigli’s most famous landmarks. Getting there involves following a well-marked trail from Agios Georgios Chapel and climbing down several hundred steps.

Pyrgos Kallistis

Of course, you can enjoy the sunset anywhere in Santorini, yet I found a particularly good spot at the famous sunset spotting bar Franco on top of a hill in Pyrgos.

This is the highest settlement in Santorini and a quintessentially Greek village with plenty of medieval charm and remains genuinely rustic due to its position away from the caldera. As a result, Pyrgos gets overlooked by tourists, so I would urge you to visit to enjoy its authenticity and, of course, the experience of Franco.

Santorini has a thriving wine industry, and there are several vineyards on this volcanic land growing indigenous grapes and though the selection of wines is relatively small, they are delicious. White wine varieties are Assyrtiko – this is the most popular, making 80 per cent of the wines produced, followed by Aidani and Athiri. Reds comprise Mandilaria and Mavrotragano grapes.

Unlike, say, Bordeaux, where the vines are tall, here in the volcanic ashen soil, vines are short and grow in nests made from the wood of the vines. This is part of an ancient process called “ambelia” or “kouloura”, which protects plants from strong sandy winds. The plants are pruned to form a low basket where grapes are protected and can mature without risk of damage by sandy wind.

There are several vineyards and I visited three to experience their wine tasting or degustation: Anhydrous in Fira, Koutsogiannopoulos in Vothonas, around five kilometres from Fira and Santo Winery Pyrgos, a 30-minute drive south of Oia. 

All three offer excellent experiences. However, Koutsogiannopoulos winery has an incredible underground museum that showcases the ambellua process, making for an eye-opening and entertaining visit.

Santo Winery must be the most glamorous place to enjoy a truly elevated tasting experience. It’s mostly alfresco, and we got there in time to salute the sunset with a glass of Assyrtiko white wine before enjoying a sumptuous dinner. 

Where to enjoy a Beach Club-style day out

Forty One is located on Perivolos Beach, and it’s a glamorous environment with the most comfortable sunbeds I have ever experienced. Plenty of cocktails and a varied menu make this a top venue.

 

Yalos Beach Bar and Restaurant has an out-of-the-way location on Exo Gialos Beach, around 3km from Fira. The narrow strip of pebbles and black sand is surrounded by volcanic rocky hills. It is a beautiful vista of brown and black hues contrasting with the vivid blue of the Aegan sea.

Where to stay

I was staying at the stunning Thimari Lodge just a few minutes walk away from Yalos Beach Bar. The lodge is a series of five white villas whose architecture is more than a nod of recognition to the caves of the region.

Read the full review of Thimari Lodge here.

How to do it

The best way to see the island of Santorini is with a tour guide. 
The best tour company on the island is VIP Santorini