When this trip was planned, my first thought was – however spectacular – do I really want to spend eight hours flying to look at a waterfall? The answer was no, not really.
However, I actually did want to see The Falls, so, with the help of Niagara Falls State Park, I planned a routine to work out what else I could do in the area to justify the trip. It turned out the answer was “lots and lots.”
The Niagara River is part of the boundary between the USA and Canada, and the two countries have taken dramatically different approaches to promoting this Wonder of the World spectacular.
Maybe surprisingly, the American side is the more relaxed, less in your face and close to nature, while the Canadians take a more resort-style approach. I recently spent a week on the US side and this is what I found.
First the Falls themselves. And it is Falls plural. The Horseshoe, American and Bridal Veil are distinct, separate and gigantic torrents. Whatever you have seen or imagined: prepare to have your mind blown.
My hotel room overlooked the Niagara River as it sped towards the cataracts. Even at a distance of several hundred yards before the climax, the speed of the river and the volume of water were between impressive and terrifying.
As you walk through the astonishing Parkland – Niagara is the oldest State Park in America – alongside the close-enough-to-touch river the volume of the crashing plunge to come increases with every yard.
Niagara Falls State Park
Walking along the footpath alongside the river, the full fury of the Falls turns into a crescendo. It is a real mouth open, jaw dropped moment. Seeking to get away from the noise and the crowds, taking a lift down to a platform below, I board the Maid of the Mist tourist boat and put on the obligatory plastic water protection, supposed to be head to foot but in reality a fig-leaf against the power of the water you are about to encounter.
On the top deck of the Maid, you appear to go almost inside the falling water; the noise is all but deafening, the sheer power of nature humbling. I arrive back at the dock, soaking wet and genuinely thrilled and giddily smiling.
But the highlight is yet to come. A ten-minute walk takes me to the Cave of the Winds on Bridal Veil Falls, where you can stand directly under the waterfall – and touch the water! All but 80,000 gallons of water a second pass within inches of your head. While you stand on a wooden platform, you can reach out your hand and become part of the river. Not something to ever forget. In total, the three falls discharge 757,500 gallons of water every second!
There is also a Whirlpool Jet Boat Tour of the rapids left behind when this huge volume of water joins the Niagara River downstream. Very much a “white knuckle ride”, it can be done in open or closed boats. Personally, I advise closed unless you have a few changes of clothes to hand.
Whirlpool Jet Boat Tours, Niagra Falls
But, amazing as this spectacle is, it still left me with a few days to fill. What to do? Well, it turns out that two of the most significant events of the history of America took place within a few miles of Niagara Falls.
Underground Railroad
Not a tube station, this was the name for the secret network of routes and so-called safe houses used by slaves in the United States to escape into Canada. Niagara Falls was likely the busiest route of all. To cross the river below the Falls was extremely hazardous. My guide, Saladin Allah, is a direct descendant of “Uncle Tom” whose Cabin was famously chronicled by Harriet Beecher Stowe. The exhibition is both moving and informative. The horrors of slavery and the dangers of escape are depicted with the aid of state-of-the-art videos and wall graphics. Highly recommended.
Erie Canal
One of the greatest building blocks of the United States of America, the Erie Canal essentially linked the East and the West of the North of the continent, reducing freight costs by up to 90%. Politically opposed at the time, this 363 mile canal transformed the country and was pivotal in making New York the most important American port.
Just a 25-minute mile drive from Niagara Falls is Lockport where a spectacular flight of five locks lifts boats 60 feet to ensure the canal crosses the Niagara Escarpment which historically divided the country. In Lockport visitors can take boats up and down the locks and also hire bikes to ride alongside the canal.
The Old Fort
Old Fort Niagara
For more than 300 years the Old Fort Niagara has sat at the mouth of the Niagara River as it carries water from the Falls to Lake Ontario. The fort was founded by the French and then occupied by Great Britain, and finally, the United States. Visitors to the fort today will see the oldest buildings in the Great Lakes region, living history programmes, exhibits, and special events. Guide is the legendary, larger than life Bob Emerson who appears to have lived and breathed the Old Fort most of his life and knows every inch of these painstakingly restored buildings.
Herschel Carrousel Factory Museum
This unleashed a moment of pure happiness and joy as I rode a Carrousel to the tune of a Wurlitzer Organ and it all but brought tears to my eyes as the five year old me. Based in the original Herschel factory the traditional skills are still deployed. This is the only museum of its type in the world and a must-see for any visit to Niagara Falls.
There are hundreds of miles of walks and cycle rides to enjoy in the Park. When I think of “New York” it is traffic jams, aggressive locals jumping queues for taxis, noise and, yes, excitement. Not here. You can walk for five miles without seeing anyone and, if someone should appear, they are likely to want a chat, talk about opportunities and amazing experiences up ahead and just generally be totally not type-cast as what we think of New Yorkers.
When you add in exciting restaurants, wineries, cider orchards, a wonderful aquarium and yes, if you must, a casino, Niagara Falls USA far exceeded my expectations. So very much worth the flight and the trip.
FACT FILE
FLY: The Buffalo Niagara International Airport (BUF) is just a 25-mile ride to and from downtown Niagara Falls, NY.
From the UK, fly with airlines including JetBlue, BA, KLM and Virgin Atlantic.
TRAIN: The Amtrak Niagara Falls Station (NFL) is located less than five miles from Niagara Falls State Park and downtown Niagara Falls, NY. The station is served by the Empire Service and Maple Leaf train, connecting the region to the east coast and Canada.
STAY: For accommodation, Niagara Falls USA offers a range of options to suit every taste. The Giacomo Hotel combines boutique charm with a touch of luxury, while The Red Coach Inn is a cosy retreat featuring fireplaces, historic features, and riverside views. For visitors looking for comfort and convenience, the Hilton DoubleTree by Hilton Niagara Falls USA is a great choice with modern rooms, on-site dining, and beautiful views of the Upper Niagara River.
Note: Buffalo is the nearest airport to Niagara Falls – a 20-minute taxi ride -and links to New York, Chicago and Washington mean a two-centre visit is easy to arrange.