Few people know that one of London’s most atmospheric Italian restaurants lies several floors above the designer boutiques of Selfridges. Hidden on the department store’s rooftop, Alto by San Carlo offers a welcome escape from the bustle of Oxford Street, transporting diners from central London to what feels like an elegant Mediterranean terrace.
Selfridges
Reaching Alto is part of the experience. Shoppers make their way through Selfridges before taking a dedicated lift to the rooftop, where the noise of one of Europe’s busiest shopping streets gives way to birdsong, climbing flowers and citrus trees.
Alto
The transformation is immediate. White pergolas draped with faux lemon branches, terracotta pots, olive trees and colourful bougainvillea create the illusion of dining in an Italian courtyard rather than above London’s retail heart. On a sunny Thursday evening, the place is buzzing and I take moment to take in the view over the West End’s rooftops.
London Rooftops
The menu showcases a curated selection of Italian dishes designed for sharing, alongside seasonal specials crafted from the finest ingredients. Rather than focusing on one part of Italy, Alto celebrates the country’s diverse culinary traditions with favourites from Sicily to Venice.
Alto Bar
Our waiter tells us that restaurant’s concept is based on small plates and we should perhaps choose five or six dishes from the extensive menu. Spoilt for choice, we take his advice when ordering and settle down with our drinks – in my case that means a glass of white wine and for my partner, a refreshing mocktail.
Carpaccio di Manzo
First up is Carpaccio di Manzo (13.50), beef carpaccio with mascarpone infused with truffle oil and rocket. We’re expecting tiny portions but this is certainly enough for two to share. It’s excellent, the cheese with truffle a perfect match for the raw meat, with the rocket fresh and crispy.
Gamberoni Fritti
Next is Gamberoni Fritti (15.25), tempura prawns dressed with a spicy mayonnaise. It comes in a cone-shaped package, echoing its street food origin. The batter is delightfully light and crispy, and the dressing doesn’t overwhelm. Rather, I would actually prefer a bit more spice, but that’s just me.
Spaghettini Frutti di Mare
Now for the pasta. Spaghettini Frutti di Mare (17.95), spaghettini with prawns, mussels, garlic, chilli and tomato, is always a good test for an Italian restaurant. Again, the portion size is good, the seafood is fresh and the sauce is a good match. We also get Mafaldine con Ragù di Manzo (16.25), short wavy pasta with slow cooked beef ragù. A hearty dish which is a great match for the seafood.
Grigliata Mista di Carne
So to the mains. Grigliata Mista di Carne (27.25), mixed grill with Italian homemade sausage, lamb cutlet & rib-eye steak. This is a lot of meat on the plate, all perfectly cooked. The sausage is very Italian, slightly piquant and actually a bit too much for us. A side of Tenderstem Broccoli (6.25) with garlic & chilli delivers an excellent dose of green.
Branzino al Sale
Branzino al Sale (17.75) fillet of sea bass baked in black salt with herb & olive oil salmoriglio is the real deal. We peel off the blackened skin to reveal the flesh inside, delightfully moist and oozing flavour. The herb salmoriglio is the ideal dipping sauce and the fish is is the highlight of our meal.
Amalfy Lemon Sorbet
It would be rude not to sample the desserts. Amalfy Lemon Sorbet (13.95) comes as a frozen entire lemon with the sorbet stuffed inside. Initially it’s quite difficult to eat but wait a few minutes and you have the perfect dessert. Lemon Tart (9.00), crisp pastry crust with a smooth & tangy lemon cream, is a second helping of lemon but none the worse for that.
VERDICT
Alto is not just a destination restaurant, although the wonderful rooftop is one very good reason for going there. The other is the quality of the food, the efficiency of the service and reasonable prices for this part of London.
Alto, Selfridges London
Selfridges, The Rooftop, 400 Oxford St, London W1A 1AB