Guide to Walking the Camino Portugués in Spain

There’s something profoundly transformative about walking the Camino de Santiago, the pilgrimage route that has guided travellers to the sacred city of Santiago de Compostela for over a thousand years. Among the many paths that lead to the city’s famed cathedral, where the remains of St. James are believed to rest, the Portuguese Way (Camino Portugués) runs north from Lisbon for 610 kilometres.

My time is limited so I chose to start in Spain and do the last section from Vigo to Santiago, a stretch of around 100 kilometres. It’s going to take me five days, weaving together coastal charm, forest serenity, and cultural riches, and it’s not too difficult. Even better, with Camino Ways, my baggage is going to be transported from hotel to hotel, so there’s no heavy load.

Day 1 Vigo to Arcade 23km

Vigo, Galicia’s largest city and a dynamic maritime hub, is more than just a starting point – it’s a destination in its own right. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, I get time to explore the old town’s winding alleys and sample freshly caught oysters in the Mercado da Pedra before setting off on the Camino.

The hardest part is finding my way out of the city but I’m soon in the lush Galician countryside. The route follows the Senda da Auga, painted waves representing the water channel that carries water to Vigo. There are terrific views over the Atlantic before I descend steeply into Redondela, known for its two towering railway viaducts

I pause in the central square, dominated by the 16^th century

before climbing again with occasional views of the Vigo estuary. A short distance ahead lies Arcade, famed across Galicia for its oysters and my destination for today

Day 2 Arcade to Pontevedra 12km

This is a short day today so I can afford to take it easy. Just outside Arcade is the medieval stone Ponte Sampaio, over the Verdugo River, where Napoleon’s army suffered one of its greatest defeats in Galicia. There’s steep uphill on the original Roman road which eventually leads to the town of Santa Marta with its tiny chapel dating back to 1617.

From here I leave the road and follow a delightful river walk cutting through the forest, crossing wooden bridges. This leads right into the centre of Pontevedra, one of the region’s most historic cities. The Santuario da Peregrina is a scallop-shaped church dedicated to the Virgin of the Pilgrims, and next to it is the Basilica of Santa María completed in 1559. Narrow streets lead to charming squares, such as Praza da Ferrería and Praza da Leña.

Day 3 Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis 22km

I leave Pontevedra, crossing the River Lérez over the scallop shell-adorned Ponte do Burgo. The landscape begins to shift with more vineyards, chestnut groves and pine and eucalyptus woods. Dotted along the way are traditional Galician stone houses and hórreos – the elevated grain stores that are iconic in this region. I pass under strings of vines, heavy with Galicia’s famous Albariño grapes, supported by sturdy granite poles.

The village of Ponte Cabras, is home to the Igreza of Santa María de Alba, dating back to the Middle Ages, and on a bench, there’s a statue of an elderly pilgrim. The timeless rural hamlets of Tivo, Barro and San Amaro, eventual lead to Caldas de Reis, a thermal spa-town at the confluence of the Umia and Bermaña rivers, Here, weary feet find reprieve in public hot springs, either by soaking them in the warm waters near the Roman bridge or booking a stay at one of the town’s spa hotels.

Day 4 Caldas de Reis to Padron 18km

I cross the River Bermaña and pass the 16th-century Capela de San Roque before leaving the road and entering the forest. The path gradually climbs to the village of Carracedo and then descends through the forest to reach the tiny village of San Miguel de Valga, with its huge church.

From here, quiet lanes and trails bring me to the Pontecesures Bridge crossing the River Ulla and into the old town of Padrón, one of the most spiritually significant stops on the Camino. According to legend, it was here that the boat carrying St. James’ body arrived from Jerusalem. A stone, known as the “Pedrón,” lies beneath the altar of the Church of Santiago, marking the Apostle’s first Galician landing.

Aside from its religious significance, Padrón is also famous for its pimientos de Padrón, the small green peppers that have become one of Galicia’s most iconic tapas. Some are spicy, most are not — a game of culinary roulette that adds a touch of fun to dinner.

Day 5 Padron to Santiago 25km

This is it, the final 25km and it’s raining. The trail is a mix of forest paths and suburban roads. It passes through small hamlet and woodland and criss-crosses the railway during the day. Gradual uphill, the trail reaches the 15th century stone cross of Cruceiro de Francos, one of the oldest in Galicia.

It gets steeper to reach O Milladoiro and the Chapel of Santa María Magdalena. Here there should be the first view of the Santiago Cathedral but the clouds are too low. Now I drop down to an underpass with a brave busker, urging the pilgrims on then climb uphill to the outskirts of the Santiago. The final approach is on cobbled streets, through ancient archways, and finally, the grand Praza do Obradoiro.

O Milladoiro Chapel of Santa María Magdalena

There it is: The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Majestic and powerful, it rises from the square like a vision. Pilgrims drop their packs, some cry, others embrace. Some stand in silence. Regardless of motivation – religious, personal, or adventurous – the feeling of arrival is universal. Next day, I make it to noon mass but am heavily disappointed they don’t swing the censer, the huge suspended incense holder. That means I have to come back.

Factfile

GO: Ryanair flies direct from London Stansted to Vigo and Santiago de Compostela.

The Stansted Express is the fastest way to the airport from central London.

INFO: Camino Ways offers a self-guided six-night itinerary for the last 100km starting from €514.

Cicerone’s Guide to the Camino Portugués is indispensable.

Guide to Walking the Camino Portugués in Spain

The final 100 kilometres from Vigo to Santiago de Compostela

Day 1 Vigo to Arcade 23km

Day 2 Arcade to Pontevedra 12km

Day 3 Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis 22km

Day 4 Caldas de Reis to Padron 18km

Day 5 Padron to Santiago 25km

Factfile

The Etias scheme is coming and UK travellers will have to pay €20 visit Europe

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