Tucked at the lobby level of Taj Palace New Delhi, Loya is a gorgeous fine dining destination where art, culture, music, heritage, traditions and age-old folklore come alive in a seamless synergy. Every corner, every piece and every ingredient nurtures a tale, like an archive of the rugged North of India, waiting to be explored.
Loya, Taj Palace, New Delhi
One afternoon, I stepped in for an immersive culinary journey. From the foothills of the Himalayas to the flat terrain of Punjab, to snow-laden Kashmir, it was going to be a confluence of flavour, passion and culinary culture, all culminating exquisitely on my plate.
Loya, Taj Palace, New Delhi
The arched entryway, hanging lanterns, art pieces, furnishings, and rustic chic design lend a distinct character. While the open kitchen infuses energy into the space, the curated artefacts enhance the heritage-meets-luxury ambience. The gentle sound of the flowing water at the bar is calming, rendering meditative vibes.
The food medley starts with ‘Dal Ki Chaat’. The chef arrives with all ingredients, nicely placed on a trolley and begins his act by the side of my table. It is fascinating to see the process of finishing and tempering done right in front of you, building up the anticipation. I loved besan and wheat paratha crisps, served with chilli oil and garlic nibs.
Dogri Saag – Loya, Taj Palace, New Delhi
Looking at the extensive menu, I leaned towards the mains. Chef recommended ‘Dogri Saag’ which draws inspiration from the home kitchens of the Duggar region in Jammu. Spinach, methi and mustard greens are slowly cooked with a small quantity of green moong dal, creating a wholesome preparation with natural texture. For all those who can take the punch of chillis, this dish is finished with a fragrant ghee tempering of red chilli and Kashmiri garlic, adding warmth, aroma and a striking final flourish. The level of chillis can be toned down as per the specification.
Dhingri Kachru – Loya, Taj Palace, New Delhi
Next comes ‘Dhingri Kachru’ which mushroom lovers can vouch for. It draws inspiration from Solan in Himachal Pradesh, a region renowned for its cultivation of mushrooms and often regarded as the mushroom heartland of India. The name comes from kachru, referring to something chopped or finely cut. Since the dhingri mushrooms are chopped for the preparation, the dish is aptly called Dhingri Kachru, connecting its name to the traditional method of cooking. Fresh mushrooms are finely chopped and cooked with aromatics and spices to develop a rich, earthy flavour and a gently textured consistency. l loved the natural flavour and texture of the mushrooms that remain central to the dish.
Karari Phillauri Macchi is strongly recommended for fish lovers. Inspired by Phillaur, the historic Punjabi town along the Sutlej, this freshwater river sole is presented in two contrasting forms. Crisp, golden fish fritters are accompanied by a whole fillet marinated with spices, then grilled to preserve its juiciness. The fillet is finished with a tableside flame and served with nikke tamatar de ambi chutney, an heirloom cherry tomato relish. Its dual textures and theatrical tableside finish make it especially distinctive.
There are several chicken dishes.’Sirmouri Murg’ is the hot seller and takes inspiration from the mountain district of Sirmaur in Himachal Pradesh. The chicken is cooked in a gravy enriched with fermented yoghurt, which lends a gentle tang, and pahadi kachi haldi sourced from the region. Just before presentation, the dish is delicately smoked, allowing an aromatic haze to unfold at the table. The smoke is conceived as an evocation of the mist that settles over Sirmaur’s mountains during winter, making the dish both sensory and deeply rooted in its landscape.
An assortment of unique breads and rice preparations complete the meal. But the best is yet to come. And that is the story of desserts.
A tasting board of kulfi pops arrive. Taste the varied flavours like rose, saffron-cardamom, paan and malai – each one rich in texture. Move on to ‘Badana Pearls’ – a delicate composition of rabri and saffron foam, finished with pistachios and almonds, balancing richness with an airy texture. I vote for ‘Doodh Jalebi’, my childhood favourite – Crisp jalebis paired with pistachio, date and warm saffron milk, bringing together crunch and comfort in every bite. Curtains are finally drawn with ‘Baad Mein’, a curated selection of digestifs and Himalayan teas.
The Bar takes centre stage
Carved out of sandstone with flowing water running below the bar platform, the bar is visually stunning and sensorial. Curated by celebrated mixologist Hemant Pathak of Junoon, New York, the menu brings indigenous botanicals and inventive techniques into soulful, bold cocktails. Ingredients such as ginger, truffle, mogra, saffron, bay leaf, jamun and paan are interpreted with craft and imagination, creating drinks that feel rooted in the landscape of the North yet contemporary in expression.
My favourite ‘Mogra’ belongs to the Flower chapter of VRIKSH and draws its character from the delicate fragrance of jasmine. Gin is combined with mogra-infused vodka and a vermouth blend, allowing the floral notes to remain at the heart of the cocktail. It is served in a stemmed coupe and finished with an edible flower, creating a graceful presentation that reflects VRIKSH’s philosophy of translating nature and indigenous botanicals into expressive cocktails.
‘Paan’ is another signature and much sought after cocktail which reinterprets the familiar Indian tradition of paan as a cocktail. American whiskey is blended with Loya paan nectar and cherry bitters, then finished with aromatic paan smoke. Served over block ice and garnished with a paan leaf, it offers a theatrical tableside presentation while retaining the distinctive fragrance and character of its central ingredient.
‘Jamun’ is also popular, especially adored by rum lovers. It celebrates the distinctive sweet-tart character of the indigenous Indian fruit. A blend of rum and amaro is balanced with lemon and jamun-berry sauce, creating a cocktail that is rich, vibrant and gently bittersweet. Served over block ice and finished with a spoonful of jamun sauce, its presentation highlights the fruit while offering a contemporary expression of a familiar seasonal flavour.
Verdict
The food, decor, drinks and service weave a distinctive experience that makes Loya unique, unlike any conventional Indian dining destination. The open kitchen brings energy and theatre, while original music adds another distinguished layer to the experience. Diners can expect an immersive experience while tasting long-preserved recipes, heirloom ingredients and techniques such as dhungar (smoking), baghar ( tempering), and dum (slow cooking) as an ode to culinary legacy, culture and heritage.