One of Jacksonville’s greatest strengths for anyone on a road trip to discover Florida is its sheer accessibility. Jacksonville International Airport (JAX) is a major hub in the Sunshine State, located just 20 minutes from the heart of downtown, making it an effortless first or last stop of a trip.
From here, the historic cobblestones of St. Augustine are just a 45-minute drive south, while the pristine dunes of Amelia Island are 45 minutes to the north. Further afield, Orlando is a straightforward two-hour drive, and the scenic A1A coastal highway beckons for those who prefer the “slow road” to Miami.
And as I was in no hurry, I was curious to explore JAX as it is affectionately known by the locals. This sprawling coastal city offers 22 miles of Atlantic shoreline, featuring Jax Beach, Neptune Beach, and Atlantic Beach, much loved by surfers, great beer and is especially famous for American football, as the home of the NFL’s Jacksonville Jaguars.
Civil Rights History
Beyond the fabulous beaches and palm trees, Jacksonville holds a profound place in the American Civil Rights story, being a pivotal battleground for equality.
The most significant site is American Beach on nearby Amelia Island. Founded in 1935 by A.L. Lewis, Florida’s first Black millionaire, who made his money by selling insurance to African Americans. It was a legendary haven where African American families enjoyed “recreation and relaxation without humiliation” during the Jim Crow era.
James Weldon Johnson Park
Darker times are commemorated at James Weldon Johnson Park just opposite City Hall in Downtown Jacksonville. The park stands as a monument to “Axe Handle Saturday,” a violent day in August 1960, when white mobs armed with axe handles and bats attacked black civil rights demonstrators peacefully protesting segregation at lunch counters.
At the local baseball stadium, where in the 1950s, Hammering Hank Aaron played for the local Jacksonville Braves, one of the first truly integrated teams in the country. Hank excelled on the diamond and was so successful that he was the league’s most “Valued Player”, yet faced discrimination away from the stadium,
Jax Tours provides exceptional, expert-led excursions with their “Civil Rights Heritage Tour” and “Top to Bottom” architectural walks exploring secret underground tunnels. It also highlights the resilience of a community that rebuilt itself after the Great Fire of 1901, the city’s most significant disaster, which destroyed over 2,368 buildings and 146 acres of downtown Jacksonville in its wake.
Where to take in ‘Jax’ spectacular views
Downtown Jacksonville overlooks the St Johns River, which, if you were in a kayak, would eventually lead you to the Atlantic Coast. With so much water and greenery around, the views can be spectacular, and what better than atop the Wells Fargo building by the John T Alsop Bridge whilst having lunch in the River Club.
Wells Fargo building, riverfront location on St Johns River by John T Alsop Bridge
Situated on the 34th and 35th floors, The River Club offers Jacksonville’s most prestigious vantage point. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide breath taking, 360-degree panoramas of the winding waterways below and the shimmering downtown skyline.
The culinary experience is equally elevated, featuring upscale classics like prime tenderloin, fresh Atlantic salmon, and seared scallops. Dress code warning! To enter the really sophisticated inner sanctum, shorts are not allowed, and I, as a tourist, was of course donning said attire.
Here for the Beer
If you did happen to kayak to the Atlantic Coast, and it’s not something I would recommend, then you would be able to grab a beer at Ink Factory Brewing on Jacksonville Beach. Housed in a repurposed magazine warehouse, the vibe is a seamless blend of industrial edge and surf-culture warmth.
I enjoyed not one but two of their signature ales, the Electric Beach Hazy IPA. Different from a pint of Fullers London Pride or Harvey’s Sussex (my normal tipple), but it hit the spot in the warm climate of Northern Florida.
FACT FILE:
FLY: My travel agent routed me via JFK to lower costs, and, unlike the sprawling colossus of Miami International or the frantic nature of Orlando, JAX airport offered a manageable start to my trip. Within 30 minutes of landing and collecting my rental car, I was checking into the Riversidale Inn and shortly afterwards dipping my toes in the Atlantic.
STAY:
The Urban Explorer: The Hotel Indigo Jacksonville-Plainfield is a boutique standout. It’s stylish, vibrant, and perfectly placed for those who want to experience the city’s thriving culinary scene and riverside walks.
The Luxury Seeker: One Ocean Resort & Spa at Atlantic Beach is the gold standard for coastal relaxation. With personal “docents” to handle your every need and floor-to-ceiling ocean views, it’s the ultimate place to recharge between road trip legs.
The History Enthusiast: Located in the historic Riverside district, The Riverdale Inn offers a charming stay in a restored 1901 mansion, providing an authentic taste of “Old Florida” elegance.
BEST TIME TO GO: Jacksonville is a year-round destination, but for the perfect road trip weather, the shoulder seasons are unbeatable and may lower the cost of your adventure.
Spring (March to May): This is arguably the best time to visit. The weather is warm but not stifling, and the city’s historic parks are ablaze with blooming azaleas.
Autumn (October to November): The “Jax River Jams” bring live music to the waterfront, and the energy in the city spikes as the Jacksonville Jaguars take to the field. For UK fans, catching a Jaguars game in their home stadium is a must-do experience that bridges the gap between their London appearances and their Florida roots.
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