In the heart of the Hauts-de-France region lies Aisne, a department too often bypassed by travellers racing to the South. Yet, for those who choose to linger, the area offers a rich tapestry of history, architecture, and distinctive local cuisine. Anchored by the towns of Laon and Saint-Quentin, this region is full of gentle surprises.
View from Laon
Champagne Vineyards
Laon
Laon Cathedral
The Aisne countryside rolls gently, dotted with small villages, historic abbeys, and memorials to the World Wars. This was WW1’s western front—a theatre of destruction and heroism. Fierce battles were fought around the Chemin des Dames, a ridge road between Laon and Reims. Towns and cities also suffered severe damage and rose again as gems of Art Deco.
Laon
Laon Cathedral
Laon Cathedral
Laon Cathedral
Laon Cathedral
Dominating the landscape from its limestone plateau, the departmental capital, Laon, rises like a medieval crown over the surrounding plains. The city’s most iconic feature, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame is a Gothic masterpiece that predates the other Notre-Dame in Paris. Begun in the 12th century, this majestic cathedral is home to curious stone oxen that peer out from the towers—a nod to the animals that hauled the building materials uphill during its construction.
View from Laon
Entrance to the Underground
Entrance to the Underground
Underground passages
Climb to the top of one of its five towers for a high level view of the city and the surrounding area. Go the other way, deep into the ground, and explore Les Souterrains, a network of underground tunnels. Originally 5th century quarries they’ve been used for everything from storage to shelter during wars. Guided tours take you through three levels, including a 12th century prison and defensive casemates built under King Louis-Philippe in the 19th century.
Saint-Quentin
Saint-Quentin Basilica
Saint-Quentin Basilica
Fifty kilometres north-west of Laon lies Saint-Quentin, an Art Deco gem with over 3000 decorated facades. The Basilica, 133 m in length and crowned with an 82 m spire is Picardy’s second-largest religious structure after Amiens Cathedral. Constructed between the 12th and 15th centuries, it was severely damaged during WW1 but has been meticulously restored.
Saint Quentin
Saint-Quentin
Saint-Quentin
Almost 70% of the city’s buildings were also destroyed but were rebuilt after the war in the Art Deco style. While the Town Hall has a flamboyant Gothic façade, inside the council chamber and wedding hall are distinctively Art Deco. The Rue de la Sellerie is a living gallery of Deco’s floral friezes, geometric ironwork, and bas-reliefs. The Buffet de la Gare, in the 1926 railway station, is a riot of gold and silver mosaics and floral motifs.
San-Quentin Art Deco
San-Quentin Art Deco
San-Quentin Art Deco
San-Quentin Buffet
Soissons
Soissons Cathedral
Soissons Cathedral
Soissons Cathedral
60 kilometres south, Soissons is known as the first capital of France, where Clovis I succeeded in uniting the Frankish tribes in the 5th century. The city has two remarkable examples of religious architecture. The Cathedral of Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais dates from the 12th century and reflects the transition from Romanesque solidity to the soaring elegance of Gothic style. Large rose windows flood the interior with coloured light, changing with the movement of the sun.
Soissons Abbey
Soissons Abbey
Soissons Abbey
Just a short walk away, the Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes was founded in the 11th century and its twin spires still dominate the skyline. Unfortunately, it was dismantled during the French Revolution and is now in ruins. But its surviving portions, including the dramatic Gothic façade and cloister, still manage to evoke the spiritual and political power the monastic orders once held.
Guise
Familistère de Guise
Familistère de Guise
Familistère de Guise
80 kilometres north east is the town of Guise, where the Familistère de Guise stands as a monumental testament to 19th century utopian vision. Conceived and built by stove manufacturer Jean Baptiste André Godin, it comprises three large residential blocks, with glazed inner courtyards. He also provided schools, a swimming pool, a crèche, even a theatre, all surrounded by lush gardens.
Familistère de Guise
Familistère de Guise
By the 1870s, nearly 1,000 workers and their households called the Familistère home. The enterprise thrived until the 1960’s when some of the flats became private and others were left derelict. In 1991 it was classified as an historic monument and today it’s a living museum. Comprehensive tours cover the residential blocks, Godin’s own apartment, theatre, laundry, and pool.
Champagne
Champagne Pannier
Champagne Pannier
Champagne Pannier
Champagne Pannier
Vineyards in the south of Aisne mark the beginning of the Champagne region, with small independent producers rubbing shoulders with their larger competitors. In Château-Thierry, the cellars of the Champagne Pannier sit in stone quarries dating back to the 12th century. As well as all the bottles, there’s a carving of an archer etched into the wall. It was only discovered in 1990 and is now the symbol of this prestigious brand.
Champagne Meteyer
Champagne Meteyer
Champagne Meteyer
Champagne Méteyer, in nearby Trélou-Sur-Marne, has been in the same family for 6 generations since 1860. Franck and his wife Anna continue the tradition and she’ll give you a personal guided tasting in the cellar. After that she’ll whisk you away to their vineyards in her vintage Citroën Dyane. Gazing over her parcels of vines, sipping a glass of her famous bubbly, there’s nothing not to like.
Champagne Meteyer Toast
Factfile
GO: Eurostar runs from London to Paris and then there’s a direct train to Laon.
STAY: The Hôtel du Golf de l’Ailette near Laon offers spacious rooms with lake views and tempting seasonal dishes in the Albatros restaurant.
EAT: Brasserie Le Saint-Jean in Château-Thierry is excellent value for traditional brasserie cooking.
La Java is by the lake in Saint-Quentin and good for outdoor dining.
DRINK: Champagne Pannier offers guided tours of their cellars with tastings.
Champagne Méteyer offers tastings and a tour of their vineyards in a vintage Dyane.
INFO: J’aime L’Aisne has information about the region.
Laon Tourisme has information about the city.
Saint-Quentism Tourisme has information about the city.
Soissons Tourisme has information about the city.
Maison du Tourisme Les Portes de la Champagne has information about champagne.
Pays de Thiérache has information about the Guise region.
Familistère Godin in Guise has guided tours.
You may also like to read Top 5 things to do in Lyon, France