A Touch of Magic in the Swiss Resorts of Leukerbad and Les Marécottes

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In the scenic region of Valais in Switzerland, small villages sprawl across the valleys and winter playgrounds have been created in the snow-covered mountains.

Each one has its own enchantment and is supported by membership in the area’s Magic Pass. I spent some time in two of these villages, each with its own unique character. Leukerbad was the first. I arrived there by train from Geneva and the regular shuttle that meets each train arriving in Leuk.

Leukerbad in Valais, Switzerland

It was late afternoon when I arrived in Leukerbad, too late to ski, but plenty of time to experience the Leukerbad Therme. And what a treat that was to spend some time in the most famous baths in Switzerland – lounging in a pool while being massaged by jets of water. All against a splendid backdrop featuring the majestic Daubenhorn massif towering above the town.

These baths have a total of ten pools both indoors and outside with a range of temperatures from 28 to 44 degrees. There is also a cold plunge pool. Other facilities include a swimming pool, water slides, a dedicated children’s pool, a restaurant and a spa area with private treatment rooms.

This is where residents and visitors gather together after a day on the slopes and the place is ringing with conversation and laughter. There is also the evening spectacular of fire show that takes place in one of the outdoor pools as night falls. The next morning, I was ready to explore the three winter sports locations in Leukerbad, starting in the largest, Torrent.

Skiing on Torrent above Leukerbad

The Torrent ski area is accessed by the cable car rising up the mountain from Leukerbad (Leukerbad-Rinderhütt) and the Faschen-Torrentalp gondola in the rustic village of Albinen, further along the valley. Pistes in this area are mainly wide, sweeping reds, some good blacks and a sprinkling of blues.

Fifty kilometres of varied difficulty will delight skiers and snowboarders of most levels. There are also designated ski touring routes. This popular pastime allows proficient skiers to explore different ski areas using both designated routes and devising their own trails. The latter is best done with an experienced guide. There are also some dedicated winter walks and toboggan runs. Some easy off-piste terrain is ideal for a first attempt at this activity (but check your insurance first). At the top of the Torrent cable car is the large self-service Rinderhűtte. restaurant. Its large sun terrace entices both skiers and non-skiers to relax and enjoy the stunning panorama that surrounds it. For those that prefer cosy mountain restaurants there are some on the lower slopes.

Briand and Alpengruss are located at the mid-station of the Faschen-Torrentalp gondola; Faschen is at the bottom of this gondola, and the popular Weidstubli is on a red run. The latter is also accessible for walkers. Complete beginners should start at the Erli Snowpark.

Erli Snowpark in Leukerbad

The Erli Snowpark is at the far end of Leukerbad and within walking distance for most, but also accessible on the free ski bus (for holders of the Magic Pass). This excellent beginners’ area features a nursery slope with a magic carpet and a separate toboggan run. An ideal venue for complete novices and young children.

A safe place for learning and having fun. Above the nursery slope are two more slopes with drag lifts. These provide an easy progression from the nursery slope, and once mastered, the next step, the blue and red slopes of Torrent, can be approached with confidence.

Erli also has a large sports complex with nine sports, plus a large indoor ice skating rink and an on-site restaurant. Proficient and adventurous skiers, snowboarders, and cross-country skiers will feel at home on Gemmi above the Erli Snowpark, accessible by a cable car a short walk away.

Fresh powder snow and awesome mountain panoramas are the main offerings of Gemmi. Ski touring adventures of different levels start here due to the absence of lifts for alpine skiing and accessibility to peaks that include the Wildstrubel, the Balmhorn and the Schwarzhorn. Four-day ski-touring and avalanche training courses are also based here. Two toboggan runs wind their way down to the bottom of the quaint four-person gondola at the back of the mountain, there is cross-country skiing around the frozen lake on the valley floor and some dedicated paths for walkers. Gemmi Lodge at the top of the cable car provides hostel-type accommodation and its restaurant is a great place to try rosti, a traditional Swiss dish. From Leukerbad I made my way to Les Marécottes.

Les Marécottes in Valais, Switzerland

My journey to Les Marécottes includes a short section of the Mont-Blanc Express. Although “express” is a misnomer for this quaint mountain train that rattles along on a single track. There is plenty of time to enjoy the spectacular scenery on either side.

There is a free ski bus from the station to the cable car that climbs up the mountain to the ski area at the top. Both the cable car and the ski bus have been provided by the municipality of Les Marécottes and neighbouring Salvan. The ski bus also operates as a school bus, commuter bus and local public transport.

Les Marécottes is one of the very few resorts that rely totally on natural snow. Although it only has a small number of groomed slopes a fresh fall of snow opens up endless exciting possibilities for free-riding, ski touring and off-piste adventures. Although it has a snow garden, it is not suitable for complete beginners.

There is only one long blue run, two short blacks, and the rest are red runs. La Creusaz at the top of the cable car features a small gathering of attractive, wooden holiday homes and amongst them is a restaurant of the same name. Both take advantage of a natural balcony with breathtaking views of the Mont-Blanc massif and the Rhône plain. Les Marécottes also features an Alpen zoo.

Marécottes Zoo

Marécottes Zoo was established close to a natural swimming pool on the rocky slopes of a larch forest in the Vallée du Trient, close to the railway station of Les Marécottes.

This, the highest zoo in Europe, offers a wonderful opportunity to view the alpine animas of Valais, including the black bear, Eurasian lynx, grey wolf, deer and wild boar. The large enclosures mean sightings are not always guaranteed but add to the thrill when the animals are visible. The swimming pool is only open in the summer but the zoo and other facilities are open all year. These include an on-site boutique hotel and restaurant. Guests at the hotel are invited to join the keeper when he feeds the animals in the morning – an exceptional treat. A discounted entrance fee to the zoo and free access to the ski area in Les Marécottes are included on the Magic Pass.

The Magic Pass

All the places mentioned above are included on the Magic Pass, which has breathed new life into small resorts like Les Marécottes. This brilliant pass offers free use of around one hundred ski resorts. It does not include the larger more famous resorts and the largest resort on the pass is Saas Fee. It mainly covers Swiss resorts but there are a few French and Italian resorts close to the border.

Those resorts that, in reality, may only merit a one-day visit are now more attractive using this pass and by-passing the hassle and expense of purchasing day tickets. It can also make skiing an area more interesting by visiting the different resorts and using other facilities that are included on the pass for example, Leukerbad Therme.

The pass is valid winter and summer and its dynamic pricing means the earlier it is bought the less it costs. Ideal for residents of Switzerland, it may also be conducive to the booking of both winter and summer holidays in Switzerland.

For more information about the topic that interests you click on the name Leukerbad, Les Marécottes, Zoo des Marécottes and the Magic Pass.