As the East Coast Service that runs from London to Edinburgh pulls into Durham, the view of the Cathedral, silhouetted against an afternoon sky causes everyone in the carriage to look up and pause to admire it.

Someone nearby says to his neighbour “I always mean to get out one day and see what Durham is actually like.”  But I miss the reply because, for once, I am collecting my bag and moving towards the door.

This time I am not wizzing through to Newcastle or the Scots capital – I’m going to see Durham – one of England ’s smallest cities – for myself.

Legend has it that Durham was founded almost nine centuries ago when the body of Saint Cuthbert found its way to a site near the present day Cathedral.

After years of searching for a safe and dignified resting place away from the ravages of the Vikings, the monks in his retinue must have been delighted by the setting, a virtual island formed by the River Wear blessed with fine views towards the coast on one side and the stark beauty of the North Pennines on the other.

Today’s visitor can still enjoy the scenery but with more than 900 years worth of history under its belt, the town is now a pleasant combination of the old and the new having undergone some remarkable changes that Cuthbert’s bearers would be hard pressed to recognise – athough they might appreciate the moving sculpture of them in the main square.

Today Cuthbert’s simple tomb in the magnificent Romanesque Cathedral and the Castle built by William the Conqueror are still the most popular sites for both modern day pilgrims and visitors.  Together they form North East England’s first Unesco World Heritage Sight and architecture and history lovers could easily spend a day exploring both, marvelling at the huge candy-stripe columns supporting the rare vaulting of the cathedral roof as well as one of the oldest working kitchens in the country – still serving hungry students centuries after the giants spits were first turned.

And the city is thriving culturally.  Throughout the year there are a plethora of festivals and events with some, such as The Mystery Plays tracing their origins back many hundreds of years.  

The Mystery Plays, which were revived to critical acclaim earlier this year, are traditionally a series of short playlets recreating scenes from the bible.   But for twenty-first century audiences, the lost works has been ambitiously reimagined in a collaboration between a number of well-known writers, many with a connection to the area, and locals who, in keeping with the tradition also take the main roles.  It is a real celebration of a community that stretches beyond the city itself - to other parts of the county known as the Land of the Prince Bishops.

Plans are already afoot to restage the cycle in 2013 but in the meantime anyone wanting a taste of another regional speciality should head for the unique Miners’ Gala (pronounced Gay-la) which takes place every July and is still, years after the last coal pits in the area closed, reputed to be the largest gathering of its type in the world.

Part cultural day out, with traditional brass music and part political gathering, the Gala attracts a wide audience as well as many locals who still see it as an intrinsic part of their heritage.

Given its small size, the heart of the city is best navigated on foot.  Anyone with wheels may find the hill (where the Cathedral and Castle are to be found) a bit of a challenge - as is finding a step free way down to the riverbank where, even when the streets above are busy there is always a shady spot for a picnic to be found.

Another excellent picnic spot can be found in the gardens at Crook Hall on the edge of the city. About 10 minutes from the pedestrian river bridge is a one of Durham ’s hidden gems.  Crook Hall itself is a beautifully preserved medieval house surrounded by a delightful series of interconnecting themed gardens.  The Cathedral Garden overlooks, naturally, the city’s most famous landmark.  The Shakespeare Garden is planted with plants that are connected to some of the playwright’s most famous works, eglantine, quince and careful planting means there is always something to see whatever the time of year.

Probably the best time to see the orchard is in late Spring when the delicate flowers turn the space into a veritable bower, but the magic of Crook is that it changes with the seasons.  If it is too cold to enjoy one of their delicious cream teas in the little courtyard there is plenty of room inside where owner Maggie leads tours which include her stories about the resident ghosts.  If you are lucky enough to visit when her father-in-law, Harry, is  around (look out for him at the gate of tending the observation platform he built in the middle of the maze), he’ll treat you to some pretty good tales too.

Later in the year there are candlelit visits and special events for children who will love the maze and the endless possibilities for hide and seek in the two walled gardens.

And if cream teas seem a bit indulgent, there is plenty of good local fare on offer at Oldfields restaurant back in the city centre.  Working with producers from across the region, owner Bill Oldfield is doing his best to support the resurgence in locally-grown food.  Local meats and cheeses such as Durham Cow Blue are particularly recommended.

GETTING THERE:

Elizabeth Mistry travelled with East Coast Trains (08457 225225  www.eastcoast.co.uk) which offers direct routes to Durham from Edinburgh and London

Standard advance returns, booked online, from London to Durham start from £24.00

Plan your journey online at The Train Line

Travel from Kings Cross to Durham in just over 3 hours 

TOP TIP:

If travelling by train, to enjoy the best views of the city on arrival it is worth asking for a seat on the right hand side of the train if coming from the south or the left if arriving from the north.

The station is about 1 mile from the city centre up a steep hill.

WHERE TO STAY

The Radisson Blu nestles on a lovely bend of the river Wear and offers beautiful views of the Cathedral and the old city of Durham and close to cultural attractions and shopping.

This sleek hotel and with a state of the art gym, a good-sized swimming,pool and babysitting services (must book in advance) this is a particularly good option for families.

Rooms start from from £99.00 including breakfast. 

More information from thisisdurham.com

6 July 2010