The long-anticipated loan of Normandy’s Bayeux Tapestry to London’s British Museum is guaranteed to be the capital’s hot ticket. Commissioned by Odo, Bishop of Bayeux and half-brother of William the Conqueror, this extraordinary strip cartoon in stitch has shaped our understanding of events surrounding the Norman Conquest in 1066.
But if you don’t want to head to London with the crowds wto see this 70-metre-long embroidery, listed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World register, there’s an out-of-town alternative, easily accessible from London by rail, road and even the Elizabeth Line.
Britain’s Bayeux replica
I’m in Reading, the county town of Berkshire, to see Britain’s very own Bayeux Tapestry depicting the events that led up to the Battle of Hastings and the conquest of England by William, Duke of Normandy in 1066. I’m captivated by my close-up view of royal processions and feasting noblemen, ships laden with soldiers and hand-to-hand combat, all so vividly portrayed that I can almost hear the clash of swords.
Battle scene, Reading’s Bayeux Tapestry
But how did a copy of one of Europe’s most iconic cultural artefacts end up in a Thameside town?
The story starts in 1885 when Elizabeth and Thomas Wardle of Leek in Staffordshire visited Bayeux and decided to make an accurate replica of the tapestry, which is not, in fact, a woven tapestry but an embroidery on linen. Using woollen yarns dyed to match the originals and working from photographs traced onto lengths of linen, 35 women from Leek Embroidery Society completed the project in just over a year.
They edited out phallic symbols considered too rude for Victorian sensitivities and added a lower border in blue, stitched with the names of each lady beneath her section of work. Otherwise, the embroidery is faithful in almost every detail.
The stitching comes to rest
At a time when few people outside Normandy had even heard of the Bayeux Tapestry, the Leek replica put the story of the needlework firmly on the international cultural map. The replica toured the UK, US and Germany through the late 1880s and early ‘90s, generating huge interest in the original work.
Reading Museum
It made money too, and the Leek needlewomen each received a share of the profits, but income was small and by 1895, their embroidery was put up for sale, just as the tour arrived in Reading. Here, a former mayor offered to buy the monumental needlework as a gift to his town, even taking it to Windsor at the request of Queen Victoria.
The British ‘tapestry’ was repaired and remounted, periodically going on loan, but has been on display in Reading Museum since 1993. Open from Tuesday to Saturday, admission is free – a real cultural bargain – but for £8, you can join one of the excellent hour-long guided tours (Thursday at 2.30, Saturday at 2pm) for a fascinating expert view.
Explore Reading
Leave time, though, to explore beyond the museum. The Bayeux replica may be Reading’s prize possession, but this vibrant modern town – renowned for its IT industry and university – boasts a historic Abbey Quarter and buzzing retail sector.
Reading Abbey Ruins
Reading’s monastery was founded in 1121 by Henry I, fourth son of William the Conqueror, and was one of Europe’s most important medieval pilgrimage sites. The king was buried somewhere on the site and today you can walk through impressive ruins dotted with information panels that form part of the Reading Town Trail. Or do as I did and enjoy an insider view with tour guide David West of Walk Reading to discover links with Jane Austen, Oscar Wilde, and the English section of the pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela.
Head beyond the Abbey Quarter to visit MERL, the excellent Museum of English Rural Life, which combines an eclectic collection of vehicles, tools and country clothing, along with interactive screens about the farming year and agricultural methods. Stroll too along the Thames Path and maybe enjoy a heated swim, a spa treatment or a meal at the riverside Thames Lido.
Where to stay
The Roseate Hotel is located on a quiet road overlooking Forbury Gardens that once formed part of Reading’s extensive monastery. This imposing hotel occupies a Grade II listed building commissioned in 1911 as the Shire Hall and Council Chambers for Berkshire County Council. Choose between 23 heritage rooms in the main house and 32 contemporary apartments in the House building which lies across the small courtyard car park and is also home to the Aheli spa.
Classic suite at The Roseate
My classic suite featured heavy golden curtains, a sumptuous settee in rich autumnal colours, and Oriental touches introduced through the lily pattern wallpaper and latticed wardrobe mirrors. The marble bath, rainfall shower and Penhaligon toiletries proved the perfect way to relax before dinner in the Reading Room restaurant.
Dinner guests can choose from à la carte or the daily set menu, or maybe indulge in Afternoon Tea. A delicious end to a city that is guaranteed to surprise.
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