India's Golden Triangle

The Golden Triangle could easily be some magical, mystery far-away world of wonder. And within the Indian Subcontinent it certainly is. It connects a trilogy of Indian gems, Delhi, Agra and Jaiphur and for the uninitiated this is an ideal introduction into what India has to offer. Even the most well travelled westerners will find that India is still a complex mix of snake charmers and western decadence – in short it is indeed a culture shock. Solange Hando takes us on a whistle-stop tour of these three amazing cities.

 Delhi, city of contrasts
 Take lofty temples and stately buildings, over 1000 listed monuments, gleaming malls, one man shops, three wheeler taxis, snake charmers, peanut sellers, sprinkle with music and dance and every colourful facet of India, and you have Delhi in the melting pot.

For bemused visitors the capital is easily divided into old and new. To the south are the elegant circular arcades of Connaught Place, the majestic Rajpath leading to the Triumphal Arch of India Gate, the President’s Palace, formerly the Viceroy’s, and Parliament House all red and cream sandstone in an intriguing blend of Western and Indian styles. This is the spacious city built by Lutyens, inaugurated in 1931 as a showcase for the British Empire, and planted with 10,000 trees to provide shade and blossom year round.

But nothing in Delhi is quite as it seems and the past lingers within earshot of the modern city. Look out for the magnificent tomb of Emperor Humayun, the stunning minaret of Qutb Minar or the royal burial ground of the Lodi Gardens haunted by morning joggers and courting couples.

Old Delhi, the walled city of 17th century Emperor Shah Jahan, is to the north. After the sweeping avenues and vistas of Lutyens’ town, it comes as a shock; the use of indicators and side mirrors hasn’t caught on here (or anywhere else in India for that matter) and all around is a sometimes blaringly loud cacophony of horns - indeed trucks have HORN PLEASE boldly emblazoned on their backsides. On top of that is the tring of bicycle bells, the sound of shoeshines and barbers plying their trade, rickshaws, camel carts, spluttering scooters and perhaps an elephant or two ambling down to the river. There are crowded bazaars and pavement kitchens and lanes devoted to specific trades, from silver and gold to dried fruit, spices or bridal wear. Above it all stand the Jama Masjid, India’ largest mosque, and the Red Fort topped with towers and crenellated walls, a lasting tribute to the heydays of the Mughal Empire.

Agra, the glorious capital
To Shah Jahan who began his rule in this traditional capital, we owe the Taj Mahal, the great monument to love built on the bank of the Yamuna river. Everyone knows what it looks like yet when you first set eyes on the dazzling domes and minarets, the perfect symmetry, the white marble and red sandstone reflected in cool ornamental pools, it simply takes your breath away. Set in gardens filled with bird song, it is the resting place of Mumtaz Mahal, Sha Jahan’s favourite wife who died aged 39, giving birth to their 14th child. Later, dethroned and placed under house arrest in Agra’s Red Fort, the heart-broken emperor spent much of his life, standing on the balcony, gazing from afar at the shrine of his beloved.

Seven hundred years later, crowds can often be seen standing on that same balcony and pondering on the whims of fate. Agra Red Fort, its second most important monument after the Taj, was the dream of Akbar, an earlier emperor who came to the throne at the age of 13 and was renowned for his love of the arts and architecture. Enclosed by a red sandstone wall, the crescent-shaped fort still contains some of the original buildings. Shah Jahan added marble halls, fountains and gardens and for his wife, the lovely octagonal tower which was to be his prison.

Take time to browse around the city, maybe bargain for hand-knotted carpets or beautiful marble items then explore the ghost town of Fatehpur Sikri, perched on a ridge a short drive away. This once magnificent place was built by Akbar to thank a local saint for granting him an heir, but soon abandoned for lack of water. Guarded by a massive Victory Gate, it’s an eerie place where parakeets and chipmunks frolic in the ashok trees.

Jaipur, the pink city
West of Agra, in the colourful state of Rajasthan, you reach Jaipur, bustling, chaotic yet totally endearing with its checkerboard of lanes and boulevards and shaded arcades brimming with exotic flowers and fruit. Tinselled trucks jostle alongside rickshaws and tuk tuks and now and then the echo of a temple bell mingles with the beat of a drum. Myriad craftsmen toil in the alleyways, printing fabric, cutting and polishing stones, dyeing hand-made paper with roses and marigolds. Sometimes a wedding procession dances its way through the streets and the smell of incense lingers in the air.

Carefully planned by the 18th century Rajput ruler, Sawai Jai Singh II, painted pink, the colour of hospitality, to welcome the Prince of Wales in 1876, the city is full of architectural gems, most photographed the Palace of the Winds, a pink fa?ade where behind 953 latticed windows, ladies of the Court could watch the world without being seen. Yet the jewel in the crown is the City palace still partly occupied by the royal family. In this vast complex of decorated halls and pavilions, treasures gleam all around, from diamond encrusted weapons and marble elephants to the world’s largest silver urns, commissioned to carry holy water from the Ganges to London. Don’t miss the stunning Observatory just on the doorstep, designed by the enlightened ruler to indulge his passion for astronomy.

Heading for the hills on the edge of town, you pass the delightful Summer Palace mirrored in a lake while the massive Amber Fort glows honey-coloured on the ridge. Fortress and palace all in one, it hides a maze of marble columns, gateways and halls, gardens and courtyards and mysterious passageways. Brightly decorated elephants carry visitors to the gate and there’s no better way to feel the pulse of India before closing the final loop of its Golden Triangle.

FACT BOX
On the go tours, London, offers dozens of group and tailor-made tours through India, taking in the Taj Mahal, Jaipur, old and new Delhi and many more cities, areas and regions, from Tiger Preservational National Parks to floating on the backwaters of Kerala in a riceboat. India tours last from 8 days onwards and cost from ?399 per person excluding flights.

To book ring on the go tours, London:
tel: 0207 371 1113; www.onthegotours.com.

22 November 2006