History comes vividly to life at Puy du Fou theme park in Western France

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Frequent winner of international tourism awards, Puy du Fou in rural Vendée is not your average theme park for thrill-seekers. There are no stomach-churning rollercoasters; no nerve-wracking challenges; in fact, no rides at all.  But the visual and emotional thrills are guaranteed to stay with you long after the holiday is over. 

The birth of a phenomenon

In 1978, French politician Philippe de Villiers realised his dream to launch Cinéscénie, an outdoor evening show showcasing the dramatic history of the Vendée region. Hugely popular with the public, this unique seasonal spectacle was followed in 1989 by a theme park named after the ruined castle at the heart of the site, Le Puy du Fou.   

This is a park that delivers history with attitude through re-enactment shows that marry live action with breath-taking special effects performed on sets of epic proportions.  

Expect stunt riders, pyrotechnics and hand-to-hand combat; singing, dancing and technical wizardry. Puy du Fou is exciting, dramatic, and often poignant, a concept that appeals to all ages from small children to grandparents and to all nationalities. But a little planning helps, so here are my tips for making the most of your visit:

Live shows from across the ages

This summer, Puy du Fou offers eight ‘Incontournables’ or ‘Must-see’ shows, with running times of between 22 and 35 minutes each.  A ninth will open in summer next year. So one day is not enough if you want to see them all and still have time to enjoy the park’s other amenities and attractions.

What to do first?  Sit amongst 7,000 excited spectators, perhaps in a purpose-built Roman arena to cheer on gladiators and charioteers. Maybe experience the massed wing power of more than 330 birds in an aerial ballet set amongst the castle ruins. Or watch medieval villagers as they defend themselves from Viking attack.  Also on offer are stirring tales of the Musketeers and King Arthur; an emotional account of the 1793 Vendée uprising; and a moving love story around the birth of colour cinema.

Three of the major shows take place inside huge theatres, the others in the open air, at various times between 9am and 9pm.  Doors open half an hour before the start time, and nobody is admitted late, so to guarantee entry and minimise queuing time, I recommend investing in a Pass Emotion or fast-track pass which not only offers a separate, shorter queue, but also privileged seating.

Planning your day

All the show commentary and park signage is in French, but language is no barrier to enjoying the park.  Download the excellent free Puy du Fou app for the daily show times and a detailed explanation in English of each show and attraction– an outline of the story, the historical context and information about the technical production.

I used the daily free leaflet – available in several languages – for the handy park map and at-a-glance show timetable, filling in the background from the app.  Then simply create your own agenda, allowing for walking and waiting time between attractions.

In a two-day visit, I fitted in all the ‘Must-See’ shows, even managing two of them twice, and enjoyed the four Immersive Experiences that run continuously.  My favourite immersive shows were a 1916 love story set in the battle of Verdun and the mystery of La Pérouse, an 18^th century scientific expedition ship that disappeared without a trace. Expect dim lighting, loud noises, and a range of sensory experiences.

Eating out and staying over

Themed villages are dotted amongst the attractions with refreshment kiosks and fast food outlets, as well as table service restaurants. I enjoyed lunch at Le Bistrot as well as dinner at Le Café de la Madelon, one of two restaurants combining a set meal with a dinner show, in this case, a wedding that goes wrong. But if you just need to grab time out with a snack, there are plenty of shady picnic areas amongst the landscaped gardens too. 

For the complete experience, book accommodation at one of six themed hotels in Cité Nocturne. I loved the period décor of my room at the Villa Gallo-Romain, a Roman-style village around a shady garden and the Atrium restaurant serving Italian cuisine. 

Alternatively, book into Puy du Fou’s parking area for camper vans, motor homes and caravans, or at a local hotel, campsite or B&B –full information and booking here.

Cinescénie, the world’s biggest outdoor night show

Staying on site is the perfect way to enjoy Cinéscénie, the world’s largest outdoor show, which plays to capacity audiences of 17,000 seated spectators on selected nights from June through early September. Running from 10.30 to midnight, this epic saga takes place outside the main entrance to Puy du Fou, bringing 1,000 years of French history to life thanks to a cast of 2,600 highly trained volunteers.

Staged around – and in – a shallow lake against a backdrop of a ruined Renaissance chateau, the story of one family is played out across the centuries.  Experience a Medieval festival and the visit of a Renaissance king, the horrors of war and the atmosphere of a 19^th century market amongst 16 stirring sequences that culminate in an unforgettable firework display.   Tickets for Cinéscénie are only bookable in advance (32 euros), but on other nights, visitors to Puy du Fou can watch the 30-minute Noces de Feu nocturnal show inside the park and included in the price.

FACT FILE

Just over an hour’s drive from Nantes airport, Puy du Fou traditionally opens from early April until late October, but this year will welcome visitors for the first time over Christmas and New Year. 

Did you know…

With its unspoilt Atlantic beaches and quiet countryside, the Vendée department is a popular holiday destination, especially for families and watersports enthusiasts. www.in-vendee.com  

Do not miss Les Sables d’Olonne, with its huge arc of sandy beach, extensive fishing port and pleasure harbour.  Designated an Art & Heritage town, Les Sables is also renowned as the start and finish point for gruelling long-distance yacht races such as the Vendée Globe.